Proper connection of a single-wave switch with. We connect a two-block light switch at home. Video: How to connect a classroom and two-block switch

First of all, before choosing and buying, you need to decide what it is - the passage switch, for which it is needed, and what is the difference from the usual one, two and three-block.

A single-wave passage switch is necessary to control a single loop or line of lighting from several points located in different parts of the room or the entire home. That is, with one switch you turn on the lighting at the entrance to the room or the corridor, and the other, but already at another point, you turn off the same lighting.

Very often it is used in the bedrooms. He went into the bedroom, turned on the light near the door. Lit on the bed and the head of the head or near the bedside table turned off.
In the two-storey mansions - turned on the bulb on the first floor, climbed the stairs to the second and there it turned off.

Selection, design and differences of passing switches

Before collecting such a control scheme, this is what you should pay special attention to:

1 To connect the passage switch light, you need three-core Cable - WDGng-Ls 3 * 1.5 or NYM 3 * 1.5mm2
2 Do not attempt to collect a similar scheme on conventional switches.

The main difference between the usual trafficking lies in the number of contacts. Simple classrooms have two terminals for connecting wires (input and output), and passing - three!

On simple, the lighting chain can be either closed or open, the third is not given.

The passage is more correctly called not a switch, but the switch.

Since it specifies the chain from one working contact to another.

In appearance, they can be absolutely the same in front. Only on the keys of the passage can be present icon from vertical triangles. However, do not confuse them with cake or cross (more about them below). These triangles look in a horizontal direction.

But on the reverse side, the whole difference is visible:

• at the passage of 1 terminal from above and 2 below

• In the usual one from above and 1 below

Many on this parameter are confused with two-block. However, two-blocks here will also not suit, although they also have three terminals.

There is a difference in the work of contacts. When a single contact is closed at the passing switches, the other is automatically closed, and there is no such function in the two-blockable such function.

Moreover, an intermediate position when both chains are open at the passable is generally absent.

Connecting the passage switch

First of all, it is necessary to connect the switch itself in the opposite itself. Remove the key and overhead frames.

In the disassembled state, you can easily see three contact terminals.

The most important thing is to find a common one. A diagram should be drawn on high-quality products on the reverse side. If you understand them, you can easily navigate it.

If you have a budget model, or for you any electrical schemes Dark Forest, then an ordinary Chinese tester in the circuit ring mode will come to the rescue, or the indicator screwdriver with a battery.

With the help of the probe tester alternately concern all contacts and are looking for the one on which the tester will "squeak" or show "0" at any position of the on or off key. It is even easier to make an indicator screwdriver.

After you have found a common terminal, you need to connect a phase from the power cable. For the rest of the terminals, attach two remaining wires.

And which of them is where, there is no significant difference. The switch is collected and fixed in the opposite.

With the second switcher, you do the same operation:

• Look for a common terminal

• Connect the phase conductor on it, which will go on the light bulb

• For the remaining connected two other veins

Diagram Connecting the wiring of the passage switch in the distribution unit

Scheme without grounding conductor

Now the most important thing is to properly collect the scheme in the junction box. There should be four 3 residential cables in it:

• Power Cable from the Lighting Machine

• Cable on Switch №1

• Cable on Switch №2

• Lamp or chandelier cable

When connecting wires, it is more convenient to focus on color. If you use a three-core cable of the JVG, then it has the most common two color marking:

• White (gray) - phase

• Blue - zero

• Yellow Green - Earth

or second option:

• White gray)

• brown

• the black

To pick up a more correct phase in the second case, focus on tips from the article ""

1 Assembly begins with zero conductors.

Connect the zero core from the introductory cable and zero-out-down on the lamp at one point through Vago terminals.

2 Next, you need to connect all grounding veins if you have a grounding conductor.

Similar to Zero Wire "Earth" from the introductory cable, unite with the "Earth" of the exhaust cable to lighting.

This wire is connected to the lamp housing.

3 It remains right and without errors to connect phase conductors.

The phase from the introductory cable must be connected with the phase of the outgoing wire to the common terminal of the passage switch number 1.

And the shared wire from the passage switch number 2 is a separate WAGO clamp with a phase residential cable to lighting.

After performing all these connections, it remains only to combine interconnected (exhaust) veins with a switch number 1 and No. 2. And absolutely no matter how you connect them.

You can even confuse colors. But it is better to still stick to the colors so as not to get confused in the future.

Basic connection rules in this scheme that you need to remember:

• Phase from the machine must come to the general conductor of the first switch

• And the same phase should exit from the general conductor of the second switch on the light bulb

• Two other auxiliary conductors are connected to the distribution unit

• zero and land are served directly without switches immediately on the light bulb

Cutting switches - lighting control circuit of 3 places

And what if you want to control one lighting of three points and more. That is, switches in the chain will be 3, 4, etc. It would seem necessary to take another passing switch and that's it.

However, the switch with three terminals is no longer suitable here. Since the connected wires in the distribution will be four.

Here you will come to the rescue, or how it is also called the Cross, cross, intermediate switch. His key difference is that it has four exits - two below and two tops.

And it is installed just the same in the interval between the two passing. Find two secondary (not basic) wires from the first and second passing switch in the dispenser box.

Dispatternize them, and connect a cake between them. Those wires that come from the first are connecting - to the entrance (focus on arroges), and those that go to the second - to the output terminals.

Always check the circuit holders! It is often that the entrance and access they have on one side (top and bottom). For example, a fire scheme for a cake LEGRAND VALENA:

Naturally, it is not necessary to shift the cake of shifting in the dispenser. It is enough to start the ends of the 4th residential cable from it. And the switch itself, meanwhile, have in any convenient place - near the bed, in the middle of a long corridor, etc. Light you can turn on and off from anywhere.

The most important advantage of this scheme is that it can be changed to infinity and add how much emotion switches. That is, there will always be two (at the beginning and end), and in the interval between them 4, 5 or at least 10 cake.

Connection errors

Many on the search and connecting the common terminal in the passage switch makes an error. Without checking the scheme, it is naive to believe that the total terminal is the one where only one contact.

In this way, they collect the scheme, and then the switches for some reason they work incorrectly (depend on each other).

Remember that on different switches, the overall contact can be anywhere!

And it is best to call it what is called "live", tester or indicator screwdriver.

Most often with such a problem face when installing or replacing passage switches from different firms. If everything worked before, and after replacing one scheme ceased to work, the wires confused.

But maybe this option is that the new switch is at all and not passing. Also remember that the backlight inside the product cannot affect the principle of switching.

Another common error is the misconception of cross. When both wires, from the passage No. 1, plant on top contacts, and from # 2 to the lower. Meanwhile, the Cross Switch the circuit and the switching mechanism is completely different. And connect the wires you need a crosswise.

disadvantages

1 The first of the shortcomings of the passing switches is the lack of a specific position of the on / off key, which is in ordinary.

If you have blocked the light and need to be replaced, with such a scheme it is not possible to understand, the light is turned on or off.

It will be unpleasant when when replacing, the lamp simply can blow up before your eyes. In this case, the easiest and most reliable way to disable the lighting machine in the shield.

2 The second drawback is a large number of connections in the dispensing boxes.

And the more cards you have, the more their quantity will be in the distribution circuit. Connecting the cable directly by schemes without dispensing boxes reduces the number of compounds, but at times it can increase either the cable consumption or the amount of it lived.

If your wiring goes under the ceiling, you will have to lower the wire to each switch, and then raise it back. The best option here, the use of impulse relays.

Lighting in the apartment consists of a variety of different elements, each of which performs its function. Any of them deserves careful consideration, but in this article want to stay in more detail on the light switch, namely how to install the light switch and what is necessary for this. After all, without switch it is impossible to control the lighting in the room.

Types of light switches

To date, several types of light switches are used to control and adjust the lighting: timers, dimmers, remote and keyboards. All of them differ among themselves design, opportunities and varying degrees of security. But the light switch device in its essence and the principle of operation is equally for all types.

Dimmers

These light switches are intended for smooth control of lighting intensity by changing power. Regulation is performed using the touch button or roller handle. Previously, dimmers could only be used with incandescent lamps, but today, due to the development of semiconductors, dimmers are installed under any light sources.

Timers

Timers are some of the most complex in their design, rarely used as conventional light switches. Most often, they can be seen in the "Smart Home" systems. These electronic devices allow you to program the switching on and off of the light, creating the effect of presence or adjusting the periods of lighting indoors.

Remote switches

Modern technologies allowed to create switches that are controlled using the remote control. Created for convenience, these switches work almost with any consoles, whether it is a remote control or from the music center. This feature allows you to significantly facilitate the lives of people with disabilities.

Keyboard switches

The most common switches are keys. They can have from one to four keys and mounted with hidden or open wiring. Simple design and connection are their main advantages.

Connecting a light switch

All work on the connection of the light switch does not represent a special difficulty, just adhere to the safety technique when working with electrical appliances and be able to use the tool. But before connecting the light switch, you must perform preparatory work and purchase the switch itself.

Choosing a new switch, first of all it is necessary to know a number of important technical moments. First, depending on which wiring indoor is hidden or outdoor, the type of switch, which can also be hidden or external (overhead) will depend. Secondly, you need to know the strength of the current and voltage in the network of the house to correctly pick up the switch. Information about these characteristics of the switch is indicated on its reverse side. It is very important to know about the technical characteristics, since the incorrectly chosen switch can be very hot and over time completely fails, which is fraught with short circuit and fire. Thirdly, depending on the type of light sources and lighting devices, a certain type of switches should be selected.

An important point that determines the sequence and method of connection is the circuit of connecting the light switch. It is created at the design project, and on its basis, you can select the view and type of switch. Most often, the light switch connectivity scheme is as follows:

After purchasing the desired switch, proceed to the preparatory work on its installation. Before making a light switch, you will have to mark the place on the wall under it. To do this, we turn to the electrical wiring project, which contains all installation sites and mark them with a pencil or marker on the walls. Typically, the switches are placed at an altitude of 1 - 1.5 m from the floor, next to the doorway so that the opened doors do not overlap access to them. After that, we proceed to the installation.

Important! Installation of switches and sockets is carried out already after laying wiring. Therefore, if you plan to complete the electrician replacement, first it is necessary to pave the wires and only after that install switches or sockets. If only replacement of switches or sockets is performed, then new can be installed on your previous place.

How to connect open wiring switch

This type of switches consists of an insulating lining (peavercraft), a switching / off mechanism and a cover with a button or key. Installing this switch is as follows:

• we disassemble the switch to get to the mechanism and pickle. To do this, carefully remove the top cover with a slotted screwdriver;
• remove the switch of the switch to get the penetrate plate itself;
• we apply the conversion to the place scheduled earlier on the wall and mark the place where the holes under fasteners will be. Usually, on the most submerged two of them and they are from each other diagonally;
• with the help of a drill, we send the holes and drive into the dowel;
• put on the place of the opposition and screw it to the wall;
• it remains to put the mechanism and consolidate it.

Important! All operations on the connection of the switch must be started with the turning off of electricity on the distribution panel.

• configuring the switch and de-energized the network, proceed to connect the wires. To do this, we clean the ends of the wires by 2 - 2.5 cm from the edge and insert them inside the terminals, after which we twist the screws that lock the wires inside the terminals.

Important! To know how to connect the right switch correctly, you should remember the following. The wires are connected in a certain order, and the marking of wires will help in this: white or brown is a phase, black or blue - it is zero, yellow, green or yellow-green is grounding. In addition, the switch will be labeled for connecting.

• securing the wires in the terminals, we set the lid and fix it. With the help of the tester, check the quality of the connection, and if everything is in order, we turn on the electricity on the shield.

As noted earlier, external switches can be both with one key and with two. In how to connect a two-block light switch, there is nothing complicated. The difference between the two-bedwish and classmate lies in the amount of zero wires. In a two-lying switch, there are two of them, and each connects to a separate key, while the phase is common to the entire switch.

How to connect the hidden wiring switch

Unlike external switches, hidden have a slightly different design. The difference lies in the belligent and decorative lid. Podrottor has the shape of a bowl in which the entire switch mechanism is placed. A decorative cover is made in the form of a frame or a small panel. Also different is the installation method.

Important! The hidden switch and peavercraft are sold separately. In addition, there are various submersors for drywall and for brick and concrete walls. When buying should be remembered.

Connecting this type of switches will require a slightly big effort and time. The reason is the need for the stroke of the walls and cutting a fairly large niche for peaver. Of course, these actions will have to be performed only in the absence of already ready-made strokes and niches. But to make them from scratch, the following actions are performed:

• in the location scheduled for a switch on the wall cut out a large round niche. You can do this with a special nozzle for a drill or perforator - crowns. The nozzles themselves are different diameters, but for our purposes the crown is suitable, which is slightly more than the conversion of the switch;

Important! Before connecting the light switch double with a hidden wiring, you need to cut the crown in the wall in advance and connect them to each other. As a result, one solid niche will be obtained, in which we can put a special double opposition.

• the wires to the switch are packed through the strokers, which make their way in the wall in advance with the help of a perforator;
• now we install the peavern for the place and turn inside the opposition to the wiring through a special hole. In a concrete or brick wall, it is possible to fix the peasant inside with the help of plaster plaster. In the drywall, the peavercraft is fixed using two screws, screwing them up to the stop, special brackets are recorded, which hold it in place;

Important! If the replacement of the switch is carried out indoors, where the wiring is completely diluted and connected to the network, first of all it is necessary to de-energize everything. Only after that you can start assembly.

• signing the peaver and starting the wires in it, the switch itself can be installed. To do this, it will have to partially disassemble it, namely, remove the decorative lid and the keys. You can do this with a slotted screwdriver, carefully steaming one of the keys. After removing it, you can remove everything else. As a result, only the mechanism itself must remain with the metal fastener plate;
• now connect the wire switch to the switch. It is done in the same way as in the case of an external switch. But there is one difference. In the case of an external wire, they cut a strictly for switch. For a hidden switch, it is necessary to leave a small margin of about 10 cm, and only after that heal the ends;
• connecting the wires, gently lay them inside the opposition and install the switch mechanism in place. After that fix it inside;

Important! Switches with two different fasteners are sold on the market. In the first case, the fixation is performed using two struts, which are bred to the sides by twisting the locking screws. In the second - with the help of two self-tapping screws, which are screwed directly into plastic pealation.

• fixing the switch mechanism, check the quality and correct connection with the tester, and if everything is in order, we put on the decorative frame and install the key to the place. After that we supply voltage.

Installation of switches is one of the most simple electrical work. Its execution does not require special skills, but also the negligence is also not worth it. If you have never done anything like this, it is better to reinforce and turn to a specialist.

Light Switch Connection SchemeAs a rule, it causes difficulties from many unprepared people, although in principle there is nothing difficult in it. I will try to convince you.

This article presents a detailed step-by-step photo instruction in which the complete process of installing and connecting the circuit is stood, as well as connecting its main elements.

The main misunderstanding causes a visual example. After all, what do we have in fact trying to understand the scheme and at least to raise the principle of its device? Under the ceiling there is a camshaft in which a bunch of incomprehensible connections, a circuit breaker, on the ceiling chandelier or lamp, and all the wires are hidden under the thick layer of plaster. To figure out what goes and how it all works quite hard. That is why, in this article we approached this issue so seriously, disobeying the entire installation of the very beginning and to the end. By reading this manual Schemeconnecting light switchi will not cause any difficulties.

Lighting control

Before we consider the instructions, it should be noted that there are so many different lighting control devices. Below is a list of the most common:

• a classic light switch (its scheme is considered in this article);
• two-lying light switch;
• three-block light switch;
• dimer;
• switch with motion sensor (presence);
• color Light Light Switch (Switch);
• two-block Light Switch (Switch).

The selection of the lighting control device occurs individually for each specific case, since any of the devices presented in the list has its own functional features. In more detail, the description, purpose and connection of each of the devices, can be viewed in the relevant instructions presented on our website.

Installation of the preset elements of the single-wave switch circuit

Any scheme starts with a junction box. It is in it that all the necessary wires will soon gather, the veins of which are connected to each other in a specific sequence by creating a diagram of a single-wave switch.

In this example, a method for executing hidden wiring, in a compact form you will be entered what is usually under the plaster. For hidden and open wiring, the connection circuit of the switch is the same.

Mount the subtle, It is the basis for mounting the mechanism of the socket or switch.

The installation of this element of the scheme is presented in more detail on our website in the following instructions, and.

Now, add an automatic switch, it performs the function of protecting the electrical circuit from overcurrent and short circuit currents, is set, as a rule, in the power shield.

For a complete picture, we lack the last element of the scheme - the lamp, we will perform it a little later, and now we go to the next stage.

Laying the wires required to execute a single-wave switch circuit

The turn of the Wire mounting. In our example, the Wire of the VOGNGP 3 * 1.5 brand is used, three-core, cross section of 1.5 mm, designed to perform stationary wiring inside residential and non-residential premises.

You can read detail about this brand in the article, "".

Let's start installing the wire gasket from the junction box to the pickle.

In the junction box and submerscribe, it is necessary to leave the wire supply for the connection, 10-15 centimeters will be enough.

Now, lay the next wire, from the junction box to the lamp.

The next wire will be the final scheme, it is designed to supply power to the automatic switch, goes from the electricity meter or an introductory automaton to the upper contacts of the automaton of the outgoing group or direction.

Attention! If you already have a feed wire and there is a voltage on it, then before carrying out all electrical works it is necessary to disable it. After disconnection, it is required to make sure that it is aback on the Wire, the easiest way to perform this action to use the voltage pointer. If necessary, you can use the detailed instructions for the use given on our website in the article.

Go to the next step of the implementation of the circuit, the connection of the equipment.

Connect the device for protection, control and lighting

Let's start connecting the protection device that will protect the chain from the occurrence of overload and short circuit currents. In our example, this role is performed by a two-pole circuit breaker.

Also, such devices are used as chain protection devices as, and voltage limiters. We will get closer to these devices, find out how they work and for which you can go on the relevant links.

Before starting installation, it is necessary to be determined with the colors of the wires. Our wire has a coloring blue, black and yellow with a green stripe. Blue wire is always used for zero, yellow with a green stripe ground, white phase.

Using a knife, we carefully remove the first protective insulating layer.

Now remove the required amount of insulation from the phase and zero core for the connection, approximately 1 cm.

Insert the stripped wire into the contact terminals and tighten the clamping screws. Check the reliability of fixing the wire, pulling it from the contact clamp up and shaking left, right. If the wire remains stationary, the contact is good.

Similarly, connect the exhaust wires to the junction box. We definitely comply with the color coloring of the wires, if on suitable contacts of the machine from above, the zero was right, then it should be on the bottom from the outgoing contacts. Accordingly, the phase will be left.

Please note that on the outgoing wires the coloring of the wire has changed a bit, the phase wire has become completely white. Different manufacturers in different ways are painted wires of wires, changes most often are subject to phase and earth wire, zero invariably blue. I would recommend for ease of installation, to not be confused, use the wire of one manufacturer.

Remove the first outer insulation, measure the required amount of wire you need to connect to the machine, we clean and connect. Check the reliability of the fastening of the wire in the contact clamps, if everything is in order moving on.

Remove the insulating layer from each vein.

We connect the veins into the contacts of the circuit breaker.

In our example, a three-core wire was used and this is not by chance, the fact is that this wire is universal. For example, now you want to hang the luminaire in the room, which is turned on by a single-block switch, but it will take time and after 3 years another repair you want to hang no luminaire, but chandelier. To connect it, another switch is required, two-block, and for it is not needed double, but a triple wire. Having a three-in-room wire in the junction box, you can easily change the scheme by making only one additional twist. Also, if necessary, the third wire can be used as. This option is suitable if you install the lamp having a metal case, in a room with high humidity, the ground contact on such lamps is usually provided.

To connect the grounding wire, we use a special contact clamp.

Measure the required amount of wire, we clean and connect. Check the reliability of the contact connection.

We are doing the same on the depotable contact.

The circuit breaker is connected. All necessary wires in the junction box are required.

Go to connecting the lamp. In our case, a cartridge is installed with a light bulb. We prepare the wires to connect, remove the outer insulation, measure the required amount of wire to connect.

We clean the phase and zero cores for connecting.

In the case of a light bulb and patron, the ground wire is not needed, it is insulated and rejected to the side. When connecting the lamp or chandeliers, do the same, it is not necessary to cut it, in the future it can come in handy.

Connect the wires to the cartridge.

Now our scheme has practically gained proper form, to complete the pictures perform.

We clean the wires, remove the required amount of outdoor isolation.

We do not need grounding wire, we are insulating it and remove it into the opposition. Remove isolation with copper veins of phase and zero wire.

Our classic switch has full contacts, it will greatly facilitate our connection.

The contact of the appropriate phase is indicated by the letter "L", and the exhaust arrow down.

White wire is connected to the right contact, blue on the outlet.

It remains to establish a mechanism in the conversion (mounted glass) andthe circuit breaker is turned off.

Read more about how other electrical wiring elements are mounted (sockets, double switches, light switches with backlit, lamps and chandeliers), you can see.

Our scheme has acquired a general view, all the necessary equipment is connected.

Go to connecting wires in the junction box.

We deal with the details of the connection scheme, how to connect the light bulb and switch

We will pass over the wires.

Wire left feeding.

The wire comes from above goes to the lamp (chandelier). In our example on a cartridge with a light bulb.

The bottom wire goes to the switch.

Watching the circuit Connection of the switch start from the wire going to the switch. We clean it, remove the first layer of isolation. It is not necessary to crop the wire, the box should remain at least 10 cm of each wire.

Remove isolation from the copper veins of the phase and zero wire, approximately 4 cm.

Go to the wire that goes to the lamp. Remove the upper insulation, we clean 4 cm on the phase and zero wire.

Now we can proceed to connect the wires.

Zero to the light bulb comes directly from the supply wire, and the phase is made in the gap. It will break it with a switch, when you press the power button, it will lock the circuit and give the phase to the light bulb, when you turn off, the phase will disappear.

We connect the phase white wire going to the light bulb, with the exhaust blue wat switch.

There are various types of wire connections, in our example, the connection is performed by the easiest way, twist. First twist the wires with your fingers.

Then we stretch the connection with the pliers tightly twist both cores with each other.

An uneven tip of a twist is biting.

In this circuit, we do not use the ground wire, so we insulate them and put them, so as not to be interfere with, in the junction box.

Now go to the feeding wire. We clean it and prepare for the compound phase and zero wire.

The ground wire is insulated and laid in the junction box.

Now, we feed the power to the switch. Phase vein feed wire with a phase residential wire going to the switch. Two white wires twist.

And at the end of the circuit, the zero core of the supply wire connects with the zero living wire going on the lamp (lamp).

Connection diagram of a single block switch ready.

Now, we need to check the work of the scheme in the case. We screw the light bulb in the cartridge.

Apply voltage. Turn on the circuit breaker.

With the help of the voltage indicator, check the correctness of the circuit connections, we are convinced that we did not confuse anything, there should be a phase on the phase wires, on zero zero.

And only then turn on the switch.

Light bulb caught fire, the scheme is connected correctly. Turn off the voltage, insulating the twist and laid in the junction box.

Installation of the scheme is made, the question is how to connect a light bulb and the switch is disassembled in detail and disclosed.

In this paper, we used:

Material

• junction box - 1
• podrottor - 1.
• color switch - 1
• luminaire - 1.
• wire (measured by specific standards of your room)
• circuit breaker - 1
• ground Contact - 1
• insulating tape - 1

Tool

• pliers
• kusachachi
• flat screwdriver
• crosshead screwdriver
• voltage indicator

How much we saved by following the connection scheme with your own hands:

• departure of a specialist - 200 rubles
• installation of the internal installation junction box - 550 rubles
• installation of the ceiling lamp - 450 rubles
• installation of internal installation (brick wall, drilling, installation) - 200 rubles
• installing a single-wave internal installation switch - 150 rubles
• installation of a two-pole circuit breaker - 300 rubles
• installation of ground contact - 120 rubles
• installation of wires open to 2 meters (1 meter - 35 rubles), For example, take 2 meters - 70 rubles
• wire mounting is open above 2 meters (1 meter - 50 rubles), for example, take 8 meters - 400 rubles
• strokes of the walls of 8 meters (1 meter - 120 rubles) - 960 rubles

TOTAL: 3400 rubles

*The calculation is made for hidden wiring.

This article will tell about connecting the light switch in the apartment with one connected lamp. Previously, it was the simplest thing - two wires, we turn in the break the switch and all things. But the times of crushes and panels with the simplest power grids passed in modern houses everything is somewhat more complicated. In fact, for a more or less knowledgeable person in a person, this is a simple matter that requires only: basic knowledge of electricity and the operation of the switch, flat and cross screwdriver, voltage indicator (optional).

The article is divided into two stages:

1. The first stage is the theory, or what looks like a circuit for connecting a switch with a lamp.
2. The second stage is practice. Take the tools and proceed to work.

Connection concept

The light switch looks in the diagram like this:

This is the simplest scheme. In order for the standard lamp with a voltage of 220 V, it is turned on, two wires must be connected: phase (L) and neutral (N).

When the electrical circuit is not interrupted and electric potential occurs in the phase wire, the current flows through the lamp and the lamp lights up. The light switcher has a task to closer or open the electrical circuit to light or repay the lamp. In addition, the protective (grounding) conductor must be connected to the protective terminal of the lamp to equalize the lamp body potential with the potential of the Earth. This protection against electric shock is needed for example when taking the body of a damaged light bulb.

Next scheme closer to modernity:

Here the electrical unit serves a 3-wire power cable.

• bronze wire - phase
• blue wire - neutral
• yellow-green - protective wire

An additional cable is sent from the electrical box to the lamp. As we have already identified, the light switch has a chain interrupt task in one place, and this place is a phase wire.

Attention! If you made an error and instead of the phase wire, the neutral to the switch is connected to the switch (and the phase wires will go to the consumer directly), everything will work - the lamp will turn around or goes out when pressed. However, the problem will arise that despite the light off, the electric potential will be fed to the lamp itself. This creates an additional risk of electric shock if you want to replace the lamp when the light is turned off - the phase will still be present on the wires and on the lamp. As a result, with any work on replacing the burned lamp, it will be necessary to disconnect the voltage in the home distribution device (bulk the circuit with the help of circuit breakers). In general, it is better to do as it should be.

For the above scheme in the considered example, add two more items, which may not be used in the case of an automatic switch, but it is worth mentioning them. These elements are:

• Triple power cord is sent to the next switch.
• The fourth wire (black) in the cable between the box (this is the hole in the wall for the switch) and the lamp.

This while the unrelated conductor can be useful in the future, for example, when it is necessary to install a double switch and a lamp with a large number of light bulbs to selectively enable light on different levels of brightness.

What the switch looks like

Here for example, the classic darkest color switch.

There are a lot of holes here, but we will only be interested in 4, located in a red rectangle. These are equivalents of terminals 1 and 2 in the schemes above. Other holes in the switch do not perform any functions. In addition, plastic gray elements are located in the upper and lower parts to snatch the housing.

Returning to the front of the switch, after removing the key (usually with your fingers, slightly squeezed on yourself), we see the plastic element that is used to attach the key and switch. It is not needed during the assembly, so we slightly refress it with a flat screwdriver and remove it.

Setting a classroom switch

According to the 3 wire scheme, the wires are exempted from external insulation: the lower 3-wire harness - power, the upper 4-wire cable - the connection to the lamp, and the 3-wire cable on the right - the power to the next switch (you will probably probably have it).

When you collect or replace the circuit breaker, you may have a slightly different layout scheme:

• It may not be a 3-wire cable for feeding to another lamp.
• The network can be a two-wire (without a protective conductor). There can be only two wires in the box (if so, it means neutral and protective conductors are connected elsewhere, for example, in a box under the ceiling.

To make sure about de-energizing, using the voltage tester (probe), check if there are 220 V potential on the power cord wires.

The next step is to remove isolation from the ends of the cable. It is better to perform this operation using the isolation puller. If you do not have it (most likely not) - take the mounting knife and clean the ends by 20 mm.

After removing the insulation, connect the neutral wires using an electrical connector.

In a four-wire cable, there was no blue wire to the lamp. We will use gray as neutral. To avoid misunderstandings in the future, it is advisable to wrap the end of the cable with the wrong color insulating tape.

Similarly plug in the protective wires.

Connecting neutral and protective wiring are hidden inside the box. In this case, there are three phase wires that must be connected to the switch.

On one side of the switch, insert the phase wire that goes to the automatic switch.

On the other hand, the switch is the phase wire that leads to the lamp.

Collect the switch. Slightly tighten the screws alternately so that you can align the switch in the wall smoothly. Depending on the manufacturer, the fastening method and wire connection can be different.

Put the key to the mechanism.

Sometimes a plastic decorative casing is dressed first, and the key at the very end.

Installation of sockets and switches is usually the final stage of repair, through which you have to go through both new apartment inhabitants and people who have decided to update their home and make repairs. Install the switch can be independently without the help of the wizard.

How to choose a switch

Switches for light are the following types:

• single villas
• two-blocks
• sensory
• pulse

Best for connecting the switch is suitable for a single block switch.

How to connect the light switch correctly - the scheme. Switch connection circuit to light bulb

Connect the switch with one key will not work if you follow the connection scheme.

The circuit of connecting the switch is quite simple and looks like this:

How to connect light switch yourself

As a rule, two wires are suitable from the total electric panel to the apartment to the distribution box, nations and phase. A wire is carried out from the switch to the box, similar to the second, and connect with it. From the light bulbs and the switch also pass connective wires, the bonding of which must be performed with each other. Wire "Zero" is also connected to the same that comes out of the lamp. Thus, through the box there are all the wires from the switch to the light bulbs, and it itself serves as a switches, turning off the electric current from the light bulb switch by rupture the phase wire through which the voltage is supplied. If the wires are incorrectly connected, you can switch zero. In this case, when replacing the bulb, the cartridge will still be energized, which is fraught with injury. Check the wires and install, through which of which the voltage is served, you can using the indicator. After determining the wires and connecting the connection, you must properly connect the switch to the conversion. It should be remembered that in old houses there may be difficult when installing modern devices in the opposition of the Soviet sample. Problems arise due to the fact that old and new submersors have different diagonal - in modern it is equal to 67 mm, while the old were designed to install more massive devices and have a diagonal of 70 mm. In this case, additional installation may be needed for reliable fixation of switches and sockets.

How to connect the switch. How to connect the switch to the light bulb

To connect the light bulb to the switch you will need:

• switch
• electric wires
• distribution boxes
• electrical screwdriver
• floors and pliers
• insulating tape
• fastening element
• podrottor
• perforator

The circuit of the switch to the light bulb is as follows: all wires in the apartment must be equipped in the junction box, as well as wires that come from the switch and lamps. The working core network is connected to the working living light through the switch so that one cartridge wire is connected to a zero residential network, and the second - with a residential wire that goes from the switch.

Light bulb connection circuit is pretty simple. Following this scheme, the switch will be connected correctly.

Proper switching switch. Which height is the light switch

Before connecting the switch, you need to set the level on which it will be located.

Mounting outlets and switches can be installed at any height. In the Soviet period, the socket has placed at the table level, and the switches are high enough. Now the sockets are low. This is due to the large number of constantly plug-in devices and the reluctance of the passage of wire beams in plain form. Switches also began to mount well below, at a distance 1m from gender. As a rule, this is due to the fact that the inclusion and turning off of light in the rooms did not make difficulties at low people. You can make a switch in the most convenient location in you.

Self installation switch

First you need to install the switch. If the switch is mounted on a wooden surface, you need to install a plate made from plastic or wood. After that, select the junction box and then connect the switch and wire, start in the corrugation, attach to the wall.

Install the block with two toxoid contacts on the ceiling. Cut the wire segment for the lamp in the corrugation and move it to the wall with the switch. Get it into a separate box. After that, take another piece of the wire, enter it into the corrugation and move it to the main box.

Connect the wire with the lamp and the cartridge to the shoe on the ceiling, wrap the ends of the wires to the bolt. Twist the ends of the wires in the first distribution screwdriver.

Isolate twist. Turn off the electricity, open the ends of the shared network and turn on the electricity again. Using a screwdriver, find the zero phase and mark it.

Start the ends of all wires in the box, connect them - the end of one wire connect with the zero phase of the network, the other with the switch wire. The free switch of the switch is connected from the working residential network.

Cover the ends of the pliers, insulated with a ribbon, top with sudden Size. Turn on the switch and check it out.

How to safely connect the switch. Safety equipment for connecting light switch to light bulb

It should be remembered that compliance with all rules when connecting sockets and following a switch connection diagram to a light bulb will help to properly connect a switch or a socket.

If you need to connect the light switch with one or more keys, very often non-professional make the same error - tumble to the zero switch, not the phase. Thus, the wire supply voltage passes through the chandelier, and when the light is turned off, the circuit is interrupted, but zero is rupture, while the cartridge in the luminaire remains under voltage. When changing the lamp, a person acts as a grounding and the current passes through it. Therefore, all the work on the repair or replacement of electrical wiring is carried out, leaving the room and following the connection schemes.