Problems in the washing machine of the eyelid. Disassembling washing machine "Beko. DIY repair of the device

Foreign pronounced noise in the washing machine when working. Example, Beko WM 3508 R First of all, I note that the washing machines of the BEKO series are sufficiently reliable. In any case, mine, which worked for more than ten years and which is fully assembled from Turkish details, honestly notice, now comes in most part of our components, the assembly of washing machines Beko, of course, also from imported components, roughly speaking, fifty on Fifty, managers in stores, however, can convince you that everything is generally imported?! However, like any active executive device, the seal also fails at the same details. Not prepared, not knowledgeable in electrical engineering in mechanics, it is not recommended to do with independent repairs?! In the washing machine, a sufficiently loud noise appeared especially when the machine produces a press or drying of linen - that is, when the engine speed is maximized, on low revs, (when washing, rinse ...), such a loud noise is not heard or almost not heard. Initially, they suggested that something fell and clinging between the free space of a stainless steel drum and a container, where this drum is posted. It was decided to remove the front, part of the body of the washing machine - "not referred to in the repair of technology, it is not recommended to engage in independent repairs, contact the service center for the repair of washing machines." On the example of Beko WM 3508 R. 1 - bottom of the washer open the panel, where the water drain pump is cleaned. There you will see two screws, unscrew them. Hands take over the entire lower panel with the right and left of it - simultaneous movement of the right and left hand on the right side horizontally, free the bottom panel from fixed snacks. The panel is removed. 2- Now you will see two more self-pressing one from the lev, the other, in the middle of the lower part, the front removable part of the washer, unscrew them. 3- Hands take the center of the front removable part with the hands on the right and from Lev. Slightly pressing to the washer's facial removable part, simultaneously with the right and left hand, with some minor effort, not a sharp jerk, omit the facial removable part of the washer in the bottom vertically. The panel of its grooves is out of fasteners or built-in Case Center Cases, panel locks. Posted the moment of removal in detail, but this process requires time, 10 or 15 may take minutes, that is, a very simple process of removing the front face of the washer. Note; "If you do not understand the electrical engineering and in the mechanics, please contact the service center for the repair of household appliances." 4- You will see a rubber cuff panel from a special rubber, which is built in its front of its own part to the front panel itself, and its rear part of its rubber "skirt" is dressed on the "front facial part of the container" and the second outdoor part of his second "skirt" Garling in the circle of the container groove. A steel spiral type is embedded in the grooves, which holds the rubber cuff on the plastic container. If you understood and made sure that there are no leaks from the most rubber cuff, there are no cracks, there are no breaks, and so on, then it does not need to be removed. Remove the facial part of the container fastened, freeing it from metal elastic brackets, which are located throughout the circle, the perimeter of the entire tank is the container. Employing (the facial part of the container), assembled with the rubber cuff and the front face of the washing machine, you will see a separator type drum from a stainless steel. Hold your hands for this drum and shake it up, down, right left. If you drew attention to the fact that the drum in your hands has combatture, that is, the bearing is relative to the container - then this means that the bearings on which the drum is planted, you need to change? If this is not, that is, you swing, but the drum as it says, strictly exactly smoothly swinging with the container, then the bearings are still in operational state and do not require replacement. You can more accurately check it out. Keep one hand over the edge of the container, and the other is trying, slightly putting the effort with your hand, swing a drum. If you understand, felt the backlash, let him seem to you and not so strong, (for example, an off date, the backlash is more than a millimeter about your feelings), - do not be lazy, change the bearings and the gland, everything is in place, they are not very much . If you understand that everything is in order and everything is fine in this matter, then this is very good?! Then, in this case, there was a limestone blockage, deposits, scale, heterogeneous threads, who wound up a heterogeneous pile. As a rule, usually, (in the area) between, (container + tan + drum), that is, at the bottom?! After removing the facial plastic container panel, you drag on it burnt on the agent, the imposition of scale, a pile, and a lot of inclusive of the Magnified, which caused the noise in the tank (container) of the washing machine. When layers and other frosted, so it began to cling to the bottom of the drum of the washing machine, if it was so, then it is very good, why?! You do not need to change bearings, we simply clean, rigidly tan, if it has a lot of scale. Naturally, we clean the entire lower part, the place itself, as well as around the mount (wire or other latches of the Tan located at the bottom of the container), from scale and layers. We collect everything in the reverse order "carefully not to miss anything from the type and attention." If there is little blocking and it is not the cause of noise, it is not good?! Removing a drum with container bearings (tank). 5- unscrew (5 screws) which hold the false panel located behind the washing machine. After removing it, we will see the flywheel and the drive belt on it, which goes on the shaft of the style engine. The flywheel will pull the M13 nut either M14 - but most likely to 13, they will need a head or a cape key (not to be confused with elder). Neither will be inconvenient, and you can rip the hex faces of the nut. 6- Holding the flywheel, touch the nut from the spot, (the thread is ordinary, right), unscrew it, remove the handwheel with your hands, (it should easily dream, he sits on the slots of the drum tree). 7- on the end of the drum shaft impose something like a soft non-ferrous metal, (thick strips of copper or aluminum or durally), it is necessary and important for what, not to score the carving of the drum tree, to which you later try to turn back nut?! The exact scope of the shaft in the shaft, (the amendment is not from all over Mach), knock out the shaft with the drum and bearings on the shaft, (someone preferably holds at this moment the drum itself in front of the typewriter, so that it would not flew away and was damaged). Usually, three non-strong blows so that the bearings come out of their seats (the landing place pressed in the plastic container) is a metal clip, with different turns, respectively, under different outer sizes of bearings. Note; Usually, when you, in time hearing the noise when washing, produced the actions mentioned above, then when removing the drum, the bearings will remain in the seats in the container - what is very good?! If you reached the moment before one day when washing, the washer suddenly became sharply and the drum jammed. Now we will be more, I apologize, (hemorrhoids), remove the inner, outer landing rings of bearings, from the tree of the drum. When removing the drum, it is found that the bearings crumbled, due to characteristic destruction, wear, rust, one part of the bearing remained in the landing area of \u200b\u200bthe container, and burned, the other part remained on the seating area of \u200b\u200bthe steel shaft of the washing machine, and as a rule, burned from Rust?! Pressing bearings from the seating area of \u200b\u200bthe container (tank). 8- The outer bearing behind the washable, the second is inside the container, it is larger in size than that. If at home there are no desired films for this? We select a suitable thick round metal pin, which will pass through the inner bearing, which is inside the tank and rest in the bearing outdoor, which is from the back of the washer. Pin insert, inside the container, we skip through the first bearing, we escape it into another bearing, and not very small blows of the hammer knock it out, we look at, there would be no skew, otherwise it will be tight out, or even jamps in the landing place. With an even outlet of the closure, the bearing is not intense enough. We select a suitable thick round metal pin, you can already pick up the head from the car dial instead of the pin, because now access to the last bearing is good, comfortable. We rest in the bearing that we have left, larger inside the tank. Not much small blows of the hammer knock it out, we look at no skew, otherwise it will be tightly extinguished, or even embroidery in the landing place. With an even outlet of the closure, the bearing is not intense enough. Here is the data, for example, for bearings in the Beko WM 3508 R washing machine, since I always cite it as an example. For the design features of all styrals, practically similar, and differ in different "frills", and the main essence of mechanics, one! "The principle of blocking and safety of power chains, both through the washing machine door, and the door of the microwave oven - the essence of the electromechanics, one!", But it was now, the retreat from the topic. Here are the data of the Turkish bearings and the gland, for the specified washer. As an example, the avoidance is not up to understanding, bring full data on them, taking into account that they can be produced by Turkey, but easily change with our components, as well as if he suddenly turns out that there will be no opportunity to consider the inscription on the extracted details. Turkey. SKT / Z / 25X50X10 / 4.1 - Inner oil seal, washing machine. 3A / ORS / 6203 / C3 / TURKEY - Bearing Outer, rear of the tank. 3C / ORS / 6204 / C3 / TURKEY - the bearing of the internal, inner part of the tank. We will only need the data that I highlighted, (25x50x10 - 203 - 204), however, as I mentioned above, I brought full data, just in case?! Pressing bearings in the planting place of the container (tank). Wipe it clean, lubricate the seats of the container, the "oil lamps, top quality, vaseline". Wipe the trumpet shaft, lubricate, "oil lamp, top quality, vaseline". Take new bearings, they must be "deaf", that is, you should not see the balls, they are closed with metal skirts on both sides, under which, at the factory, the manufacturer should have fill the lubricant. It is easy to check - rotating the inner part of the bearing with your fingers, you must feel some resistance to the rotation of this inside, your fingers, "the speed of rotation is more - the more packed the lubricant plant there." However, the lubricant can not be so much that you do not scroll, the bearing should scroll, but do not stand in general, pay attention to it, and do not take such bearing?! Insert the inner bearing of the tank - the fingers are slightly varying, as if by catching the moment that the bearing will go somewhat, evenly clinging to the edges of the landing place. We select a thick, powerful metal mandrel - to fit, which will not be more landing space, but sufficient to fit under the outer size of the bearing. An example (for example, you can choose from a car set of heads - the head of the appropriate size, and so on). Insert the head as much of the car set, the rod, in the rod with the average effort to knock the hammer, note, the hammer should not be (children's size), small. Subtlety - during the pressing the very first main blow. Because at the same time the bearing immediately enters evenly into the landing place, on which depth. This means that on you will only be a couple of three times, (push up with a hammer), and the bearing will easily become in its landing place. If something did not happen after the first blow, and you noticed that the skew is not very big, (and if we take a big one and again "pick it up" in your place), we carry out one hit, right there we are watching if there is no skewer if he Dotted, a stem with a head, hand-warning an effort of the hand to the edge of the bearing, where in your opinion it sticks out more from the climate and so do not pressed. Making sure in full pressing, for loyalty, press the rod evenly, and, without letting the effort of the hand, fasten the slightly on the stock, on this pressing it is over. Lubricate the gland "Oil lamps, top quality, vaseline", with the outside of it and inside it. Also, as indicated above, it is intuitively through its hand, refuel the gland correctly, we also select, to fit according to the above method - we will prescribe. The gland is easy, as a rule sits down, without any particular effort. The second subtlety (I share how for myself). Before you put the second bearing, bring the space with a lubricant - the cavity of the clip between the internal sides of the bearings. Lubrication can be lithol, solidol, composite lubricant, lithol-24, solidol, cyatim-201, cyatim-202, OKB 122-7, cyatim-203, VNIIII-242. It is possible and imported solidol, lithol, composite lubricant, such as type, Blue (MS-1510), MS-1000, and so on. For what? Over time, in the rolling process of bearings and micro-vibrations of shocks on the culnge cake, when exposed to aggressive liquids with high temperatures, and these are various washing powders that we use, plus it all warmed up to 90 and higher degrees, as a rule, when washing All these details wear out at the same time. Bearings dry out, the gland begins to simultaneously pass the water to bearings and then everything is happening about what I wrote above. What would have happened for a very long time for the second time, after replacing these components, make the procedure described above. During the rotation of the axis of the shaft of the drum, the same specific centrifugal effect occurs. The inner gaps tightly stuck in the inner grease between the inner sides of the bearings, at the time of the centrifugal forces, will give out of the nutria, the bearings themselves. The moment of rotation, the temperature of the bearings, otherwise, with an empty cavity, due to poorly pressed metal cuffs in the bearing, will be squeezed out of the bearing into this empty grease cavity, which was refilled by the manufacturer in this bearing. In the good case, when performing the specified procedure with a packing of a lubricant - the effect is reverse. The grease in the cavity as spoke, will give the bearing from the inside, and in a preheated state, will leak through the bearing cuff into the bearing itself, thus adding lubricant, compensating for the production, burnout its own lubricant in the bearing?! And so, the bearing is the outer, rear of the tank, we will prescribe the same way specified above, after filling in the lubricant of the empty hollow space - this is how for yourself you will do. It is clear that in the service you, this, no one will do, and if you try to explain, you will not be can't either, or will it offer for an additional fee - is it to choose from?! You will be hoping, only for the fact that, in the bearings themselves, enough lubrication, no more?! Installing a drum into a container. Take a drum with a lubricated axle or a shaft as you are more convenient to name, insert the end of the shaft into the inner bearing of the drum - with some hands, press and the impetus, the axis of the drum, plant the bearings before stop. If only until half came, what to do? Look at the back of the machine, whether the shaft sticks out enough to turn the nut. If not, then in the inner part in the center of the drum, we admire something round and wooden, (for example, cut off on the desired length, cuttings from the shovel, and knock on the cutlets, it's a couple of times, it's not strong that only from the rear bearing The amount of thread is also extruded extra lubricant it is normal). You don't need to beat over the drum yourself, so it would drive him, the axis to the landing places of bearings - you can break the duralum threesome, into which the axis is clicked - the tree, and the stripper itself is clouded to the very drum from the stainless steel, then everything is easier to buy a new washer?! Now you have enough threads, screw the nut on the axis of the shaft without flywheel, and stretch the bay tree of the drum to the end, you will understand when the nut will start tightened. We unscrew the nut, we put a flywheel in the slot of the tree of the tree, and finally spinning and pull up the nut - everything is here. The rest of your actions. Put a detailed "face part" of the plastic container (tank), assembled with the rubber cuff, (which we did not remove in view of its good condition), and the "facial metal part" of the washing machine, everything is attentive, nothing is missing, in the reverse order, According to the submitted techniques specified above in this topic. Put metal latch brackets, by their landing places, for fastening and fixing the "face part" of the plastic container. Good luck to all. Publication, copying of the material, indicating this source resource, is welcome!

Modern washing machines are widely used in society. Including, of course, and washing machines brand Beko. Household appliances to which the washing machines include, today is full-featured equipment and provides housewives with the possibility of maximum exception of manual labor. The washing machines of modern models perform almost all the functions of washing, including the spin and drying of the linen.

Meanwhile, even with all the volume of the improvement of washing machines, which takes place, this technique, one way or another, is subject to certain loads, which, in the end, lead to the failure of the device. It should be noted here that how correctly the operation of the washing machine will be carried out, the durability of its work depends. Under all the conditions of operation, which are determined by the manufacturer, the Beko washing machine is able to serve its owner at least five years without repair. If the operating conditions are not respected, this period can be shrinking. One of the basic conditions in this case should be considered the parameter of the machine loading rate, which is on average no more than two - five kilograms of dry linen, depending on the type of fabric. If these rules are constantly overwhelmed, the machine fails quite quickly and then the device will have to be repaired or change. Repair of washing machines, as a rule, is carried out in repair shops, but in most cases, the car can be repaired independently.

Faults arising from the operation of washing machines, on the example of the Beko machine, can be divided into small and serious. The number of small faults includes such as clogging filters on the supply and drain lines, which are easily corrected by the ordinary cleaning of the filter elements (17). In the number of serious arising from the systematic overload of the machine, the destruction of the bearing bearings of the drum shaft (15), accompanied by the destruction of the gland. This fault is already a major malfunction, but in principle, it can also be performed independently, the truth will have to disassemble the entire car for this. This malfunction is determined by such symptoms as flowing water from the tank and the occurrence of strong tank backlash. When the machine is turned on with such a malfunction, the launch is accompanied by a strong knock and strong vibration of the case. First of all, starting repairing the device, you need to turn it off from the network, disconnect from all communications and move to a spacious place to work. Next, it will be necessary to remove the rear (2), the upper (1) and the front (3) covers, the last two of which must be said, have some dismantling nuances, for example, such as hidden latches.

The additional difficulty of removing the front cover is also accompanied by the fact that the download window is connected to the working tank by means of a rubber shock absorber (12). One side of the shock absorber is fixed along the entire length of the tank rim using metal clothespins, which are distributed evenly every ten centimeters across the entire circumference. Get to the clothespins, you can only on the side of the open top cover.

After the rubber shock absorber is disconnected from the tank, you need to remove the counterweight. The counterweights are located at the top of the tank and are fixed on three long bolts. Remove them is easy. Further, it is also necessary to disconnect the pump nozzle and remove the belt transmission connecting the motor shaft with the working wheel of the tank shaft, as well as, respectively, the impeller. The tank itself is suspended on the springs and is removed quite easily. The tank of the machine consists of two parts: an external case and an internal rotating part. The rotating part "sits" on the shaft, which in turn relies on the bearings, pressed in the block of the stationary part. The purpose of the repair is to replace the bearings, as they are the cause of the strong vibration of the tank due to overloads.

Water leakage from the tank is due to the integrity of the sealing membrane, which must also be replaced. To produce all these replacements, it is necessary to separate the inside of the drum from the external one. It should be done carefully, with the help of special films or other mechanisms, so as not to damage the shaft and the tank itself.

After replacing the details, make an assembly of the machine in the reverse order.

Our comfort is largely provided with household appliances. Without it, few people represent their lives. A bright example is the washing machine machine. Recently, it was the subject of luxury, today - almost mandatory requirement for normal life. But technology is on the technique to break from time to time. Naturally, the less freaks arise, the better, but what should I do if the washer broke? Call masters? If the warranty period is valid, it is necessary to do this. If the warranty has long been over, you can repair the washing machine with your own hands. Perhaps not all faults will be able to eliminate independently, but most of them - for sure.

How is the washing machine

Repair of the washing machine is possible only when you know what it consists, what role each part plays. When you are clear, the principle of operation and the purpose of each detail are clear, you can define for a fault, which may be the reason. So, we will analyze from what is the washing machine machine.

The most common models of this home appliance with front-loading - in our conditions are a washed basically in the kitchen, closed with countertops or in the bathroom. In this case, the front loading hatch is more convenient.

Control

The control unit consists of a panel and boards. There are pens or buttons on the panel, with which we specify the washing modes. The board is responsible for recognizing the specified modes. In the process of washing, it leads to all parts in accordance with the specified program - includes / turns off the water supply, manages it with heating, drum operation, pumping pump, etc.

All operation parameters are tracked by various sensors. The information coming from them is processed in a microprocessor installed on the board. The control system is actually quite complex, but it is she who is the main part of the washing machine. There are the following sensors:

Water level sensor. Tracks how much water is in the tank. According to his testimony, the water supply is turned on / off.
Temperature sensors. Located at the bottom of the tank. According to their testimony, the water heating is turned on / off.
Tab. Controls the rotation speed of the drum.
Time relay. Traffic intervals required for different steps.

All these parts are connected to the Wire Management Board, in some chains a relay cost.

If the board is damaged, the machine begins to confuse the program. This is the main sign that the control board is damaged in the washing machine. All other breakdowns can be associated with incorrect operation of the sensors, but programs in programs - processor disease. Repair fee very rarely, usually it just changes. Bad news is that the cost of the board is high, although the replacement of difficulties does not represent. The connector for its connection is standard. Old turns off. For this, the conductors are removed from the pads, the faulty fee is dismantled. It is installed on its place working, all conductors are connected to the place.

The main reason for the failure of the control board is ridiculous meals, therefore it makes sense to power the washing machine through (or put it on the entire apartment or house).

Executing devices

The control board is connected to all executing devices - drum, electric motor, pump, overlapping water valve, etc. It is their work that controls sensors.

These are all the main working items. The failure of each of them leads to a malfunction of the washing machine. Repair mainly consists in replacing the element failed. Only pump and water supply valve can clog out. It may be called and in the door lock, it is not random - someone can shove something there, mostly, of course, these are children.

Tank washing machine

In the washing machine, the tank occupies almost everything in the housing, as it is a drum to load the linen. The drum is connected to moving, so it can rotate around the horizontal axis. TEN and some sensors (temperature, water level) are also inside the tank, there are nozzles for feeding and removing water.

To hold the tank in the same position during the operation of the washing machine, there is a stabilization system. These are springs and shock absorbers that quench most of the vibrations.

The tank itself is usually made of plastic. There are collapsible models, there are insignificant. Washing machines with collapsible tanks are usually more expensive, but in this case it is worth overpaying, as their repair is much easier. If something happened with the bearings, they can be easily replaced by breaking the tank.

Another malfunction of the washing machine at which the collapsible tank is better - a crack in the housing. If shock absorbers do not cope with their work, the drum with linen during annealing begins to knock on Baku. Plastic is not designed for such loads, therefore cracks appear sooner or later. If the tank is collapsible, you can change the damaged part. It is not very difficult and expensive. If unbalanced, in theory, it is necessary to replace it with the drum, which is completely expensive. But in this case, it is possible to help in this case - repairing the tank of the washing machine with your own hands in this case is the cracking of the crack. Use better waterproof and heat-resistant universal glue, which can be plastic glued.

Case and other details

Repair of the washing machine begins with your own hand disassembly. The housing is usually made of a thin sheet metal covered with a layer of enamel. The upper cover is plastic, the rear is from galvanized steel, everything is attached on the screws. Where exactly is the fastener, depends on the company and model. But inside the case there are still some items.

These are all the main nodes of the washing machine with horizontal loading. Next, consider their interaction when working.

How the washing machine works automatic

To independently repair, it is still necessary to know the order of the washing machine. This will help determine the element that could lead to this breakdown. So, here is the order of the washing machine:

In this algorithm, there may be deviations - in some programs there are additional steps. For example, soaking and double spin. But they have no innovation. Soaking occurs just like a rinse, with a double rinse at all without problems, just water pumps twice.

Knowing this algorithm will help you determine where, at what stage a failure occurred. Accordingly, it will be possible to determine which parts of the car could break.

Repair of the washing machine do it yourself: the most common breakdowns

Machine designs Though very similar, but there are differences in them. However, there is a certain set of faults common to all styras.

Not included washing

Repair of the washing machine begins with your own hands with the fact that the program should be determined at what stage. Sometimes the washing machine fails to run. There are several possible reasons:

If all these items are checked, no faults, and the washing machine does not turn on, problems can be in the control board. You can only determine this by installing the work board.

Water is not recruited

If water is not recruited into the car, check it first in the water supply. It is also worth checking its pressure (open the crane and appreciate the pressure). If it is sufficient, moving on:

The same reasons lead to another breakdown - the water is recruited in the car slowly. If the pressure is normal, then the hoses are shifted / flattened / beat or clogged the filter.

Water does not heat up

If the water is not heated in the typewriter, the first thing comes to the head - burned the heating element. In this case, the repair of the washing machine is with your own hands in replacing the Tan. But this is not the only reason. Their whole three:

If the water in the washing machine is heated, but for a very long time, most likely, a scale was formed. We will have to extract the heating element and score from it.

Does not spin drum

There are several reasons again. The first, the most terrible - burned the engine. To do this, on its terminals it is necessary to check the availability of voltage. If there is no voltage, the motor is faulty. Other problems are not so global:

Another possible option - between the tank and the drum fell something that blocks the rotation. In this case, the drum must be disassembled and pull out interfering items.

Water does not merge

There are a lot of options here. Too many factors, so this time the repair of the washing machine can take a lot of time, with your own hands - so far all the reasons will be offered ... So, let's start with the simplest:

Water flows from washing machine

In this case, there are two different situations: leaks a little and flows strongly. The reasons are similar, you can check everything. The first thing to do is to drain the remnants of the water (by revealing the filter on the release, see in the previous paragraph). If it flows in incomprehensible from where, but not with the door, start checking from the simplest:

If flowing from a closed door, the reason for wear of the elastic lining.

The car vibrates greatly

Typically, this breakdown occurs at the spin stage. The machine begins to knock and jump. In this case, repair of the washing machine is rarely required. Most often, the reason in the overload of the car or is that the underwear has beating in one bunch, and did not distribute the drum, as it should be. Everything is simple: stop the wash, take out some of the things (if the overload) or distribute them. Turn on, continue washing.

If none of these reasons was confirmed and the knock was constant, the suspension springs could be cut off, the shock absorbers were contacted or the ballast fastening was reduced. The treatment method is clear: replacement of springs of suspension or shock absorbers, pulling up the bolts on the ballast.

Video on the topic

Possible breakdowns of washing machines are many, as well as models of machines. Describe everything for too long, but in the video format everything is much easier.

Many masters claim that the machines of the eyelid are staffed not very high-quality details, which includes management fees, a temperature sensor, relay. Repairing such machines does not always justify itself, and the consumer is forced to acquire a new washer. But sometimes the problems are not too serious, they are quite possible to eliminate their own forces. So it is worth dealing with typical cracks and understand how the repair of washing machines Beko is being repaired.

Basic malfunctions of washing machines Beko

Professional wizards repairing styras can, observing the working technique, to name the node or an element that refused or will break down and will require repair. Everything is simple - problems started with a machine for washing things, it is immediately necessary to call a specialist and the workshop so that it reveals the cause and with a good coherent circumstance carried out repair on the spot. It seems that everything is easy and simple, and there is no headache. Yes, and such an act in some situations justifies itself.

But there is one nuance - the challenge to the wizard house will cost you in a round sum. Quite often it happens that the payment of repair services is more expensive than the acquisition of a new automatic machine for washing. It's a shame in this case money, especially when it does not have the opportunity to quickly make a new acquisition. But there is one way out - perform repair with your own hands. True, you will have to correctly define the refusal, and this will help the main signs of the breakdown:

there is no heating of water, or it is heated very much, disrupting the specified temperature mode;
water flows into the tank for a long time, or does not merge at all;
the door is not tightly closed, which does not allow starting the wash process;
after the process, the waste water does not go into the sewer, the machine is very buzzing;
when rotating the drum, a strong grinding, clanging and other extraneous noises are heard;
no program starts, because after switching on the panel, all the light bulbs are blinking. The second option - the program can be exhibited, but not activated;
the washing machine from the start button does not turn on;
the display is issued an error code.

Characteristic causes and features of breakdowns

If noted that the washing process passes in cold water, violating the specified program, you can suspect a breakdown of the heating element or the board responsible for control. This conclusion comes when the water overheats, almost reaching the boiling point. Most likely, the whole problem is in the board, but the TEN must be checked.

After the launch of the washing program to the tank should begin to come water, and the intensity of this process depends on the specified program. But when visually you do not observe water in the tank, and the drum rotates with dry things, or after some time the machine simply "freezes", then you should look for one of the following reasons:

there are no water in the water supply;
clogging filter located at the base of the fence hose;
refused the water intake valve;
broken control unit.

The bato machine is arranged in such a way that it will never start the wash until the door is closed tightly, and the special sensor-blocker will not send the desired signal to the management fee. If the hatch does not close at all, or it seems closed, but the wash has not begun, it is necessary to inspect the blocking. Perhaps she broke and cannot hold the door. The second problem is the sensor itself. If the whole thing is in the lock, try slightly pressing on the hatch and try to activate the washing program.

When the washing process is completed, the machine must drain the dirty water and dial fresh to perform a rinse. This process is accompanied by a roast published by the drain pump. Water merges quickly enough, then the machine performs a fence of a new amount of fluid. But if some time passed, and the washer did not merge the spent water and "hung", or the pump is buzzing, but the water does not come off, then problems should be signed in:

pump for draining water;
board responsible for managing processes;
casting a drain hose or sewer pipe.

When the washing machine gives a characteristic clang during operation, the bearing is completely possible, it is possible that bearings failed, or a foreign object got into the tank, stuck between it and the drum. In this case, the machine should immediately turn off and take all measures to fix the problem.

SMA may not be turned on at all, or blinks with all the bulbs, and the re-inclusion of a positive result does not give. In this case, the problems may be associated with:

breakdown the launcher machine;
refusal of the management block;
purple of the network cord.

The best option when the washing machine does not just refuse to work, and gives a certain error code. With it, you can immediately understand what the problem lies.

How to eliminate failures

We'll figure it out how to repair washing machines Beko on your own.

Problems with water drain.

You should be known that after washing, the waste water is not distinguished by purity and transparency. In order for various small garbage and dirt to do not climb the pump, a special filter is installed in front of it, which is in most cases and clogs. The main task is to find this element, which, as a rule, is located at the bottom of the machine, under a small hatch or panel.

before removing the filter on the floor, a pelvis is placed or a rag is ragged to assemble the waste water that is necessarily poured out of the hole. Some models machines in the kit have a hose for emergency descent of water;
in order to remove the filter, it should be rotated on the right side;
after that, the filter is cleaned and is washed under the jet of water;
with a screwdriver, you can clean the nozzle that can also be clogged;
in preventive purposes, you can clean the filter mounted on the water fence (it is located at the point of fastening the intake hose to the rear wall). As a rule, the particles of rust and sand are accumulated in tap water;
after cleaning the intake filter, you should not hurry to install it for your previous place - it is necessary to examine the pump itself for a drain. Quite often, the machines of their own diagnostic system detect the pump failure and the signal is fed. But sometimes, if the malfunctions are small (the impeller broke), the "controller" is not able to identify the problem;
to check the pump, you need to activate the water drain mode and look into the plug hole, how the impeller works. Rotation will say that everything is fine. In case of immobility of the element, it is necessary to clean or completely replace the drain pump;
now you can install everything in your place, assemble the machine and spend a trial washing.

The water is badly heated.

To cope with such a refusal, you will have to again perform a partial disassembly of the washing machine. But before it should be noted that in all machines, the thermoelectron heater belongs to the number of weak nodes. In the people, he is called a simple word - TEN. The mineral components in the pipes under the action of hot water begin to crystallize and accumulate on the heater by the usual scale. The flight does not allow heat to pass to the water, therefore Ten burns out. But if the water in the pipes is soft, and the scale does not appear, or you use special means, then the TEN is still capable of overcome, as it has its own working resource.

In order to accurately make sure what happened to the heating element, it is necessary to get to it. The peculiarity is that in different models it is located in front, and behind. For the first case of action as follows:

the front panel machine is removed. But it is preliminarily necessary from the door to remove the cuff. It is necessary to act carefully not to cause damage to it;
you will stick together two contacts with the wiring connected to them, which must be disconnected;
using the tester, you need to check the resistance. With the norm, it will be from 25 to 30 ohms. In other cases, it can be confident that TEN refused;

we unscrew the nut with the bolt, holding the heating element under the drum, carefully pull out the TEN;
place for its installation, we clean from the raid and accumulated garbage;
we establish a new analog, connect the wires.

In the event that the heating device is working, you should check the thermal sensor located under the top panel.

For this you need:

unscrew the screws and remove the top panel;
the sensor is dismantled along with the detergent tray and the control panel, since all this creates interference to get to the element you are interested in;
opening access to the sensor, you must turn off all wires from it;
checking resistance. Normally, it should be 4.7 com;
the sensor must be held in a container with warm water - the resistance indicator should decrease. Otherwise the element is subject to replacement;
the new sensor is installed in place, all operations are performed in the reverse order.

Repair electrics and electronics with their own hands.

If you have special knowledge and necessary experience in the repair of electrical appliances, then you can eliminate the contact or oxidation of the terminal. All that will be required is the circuit of electrical wiring machine, which can be found in the instruction manual.

But with electronics not so simple. Repair work or replacement of the management fee involve special knowledge and certain experience. Taking into account the cost of the new module, should not be attempted to repair it yourself. It is better in this case to invite the masters who will do everything himself.

Vibration washing machine.

During the work of the unit for washing things, in particular, during the execution of the press, the machine issues a strong vibration, begins to "jump" in different directions. Pay attention to how long the linen is loaded. Vibration is possible if the maximum norm is exceeded. Another recommendation is to check how correctly the supporting legs of SMA. They are exhibited by level so that the device does not flaw. Specialists advise when installing a machine to use special stands.

Conclusion

As a result, it can be concluded that the beoco washing machine is quite sufficient reliability, but it can break. Calling the master can do quite expensive, so you need to try to perform repair work on your own.

Know that if you are a user of the Beko washing machine with a maximum load of five kilograms, then all its malfunctions will be similar models intended for three kilograms of things. And for the machine for a long time worked to be surely, we recommend carefully examine the requirements of the instruction manual and perform all its rules.

Before deciphering codes, I want to tell about the most common faults in the BECO washing machine, they are associated with the drain system and the water bay system. It often sounds the question of why the washing machine does not merge water, while the owner of the Washing machine, who scores it, cleaned that he cleaned everything that it is possible and that it is impossible. The biggest error is that no one looks into the pump housing, simply unscrews the filter, it washes it if there are some coins or other items in the case, then pulls them out and turns the plug in place. It is certainly good that you have made this operation, but for high-quality cleaning, you need to take a flashlight and devote to them on the impeller of the drain pump, if it is possible, it is advisable to check your finger, under this impeller, the presence of foreign objects. Be sure to, it is necessary to blow the drain hose, but before that again unscrew the filter of the pump, the fact is that in the main nozzle that goes from the washing machine to the body of the drain pump, there is a plastic ball and so that it should be in the tank, the filter should be Rejected. The next step is to wash well, the main pipe, there is no less dirt in it than in the same filter. Now let's talk about the bay of water. First, unscrew the hose from the washing machine, lower it in the basin or bucket and open the crane, so you check the pressure. In the valve housing there is a filter, it is made in the form of a shallow mesh, you can pull it out of the pliers, it is not necessary to unscrew it, it just pulls out. In modern mothers, all valves are designed for 220 volts consumption current to check the working valve or not, this voltage can be applied to it. An important role in the water bay plays the press service, it can be checked by replacing it, if the press service is mechanical, then you can blow and listen to a click, if you hear it, most likely water level sensor worker. In an electronic sensor, blowing undesirable, you still do not hear click, and you can break the mechanism. More or less basic information, I told, now you can proceed to read error codes

Read error codes on eyelid washing machine with display and without display

If you see with the display, then error codes are displayed on the scoreboard. On a washing machine without display, we can see them in the form of a combination of the lighting of the indicators on the control panel. In the photo below you can see the Beko washing machine without a display, on this photo in red shows those diodes for which you need to pay attention

Emox Machine Error Code Table with Display and Display

red color → Lit / Green color → Do not burn
Error codes	What indicators are burning on the display	Ways to eliminate malfunction
H1.		The control module does not see the water temperature sensor To a greater extent, this breakdown is not connected with the thermistor himself, but with wiring. There were cases when on contacts, the utter tongue was broken, as a result, the contact simply went down and this error appeared. The thermal sensor fails very rarely, in my practice, this happened, just a few times. Of course the sensor must be checked, because and the stick 1 time in 100 years shoots
H2.		Washing machine does not warm water Not everything is as simple as you think, of course, there may be a tan, but there may be other reasons for this ailment. I recommend to find out, more about this breakdown in this article
H3.		TEN, that is, the heating element can not turn off Usually excess water temperature, in a washing machine, is associated with several reasons that I now list Bulipped Tan relays on the control module The thermistor or, as it is also called → The temperature sensor does not change its resistance Contact the pressostat of the grain in the position of the full tank, so the water in the tank will be either small, or it will not be at all. As a result, the control module will give a signal to heating water, and since it is not there, the temperature sensor will not change its resistance, or will do it too long. Honestly, such a breakdown was only a few times, for the entire practice, but since the precedent was, it is necessary to tell about it
H4.		Many water in the tank The cause of the occurrence of such a malfunction can be the valve control simistor, as well as the valve itself could fail, that is, stick in the open position. It is also desirable to check the valve coil, that is, measure its resistance. In general, check the details that are associated with the valve of the water bay
H5.		During a certain period of time, water did not merge I pretty well described this error at the beginning of the article, but if you need more details, you can go under this reference. There are nuances about which you need to know
H6.		Symstore controlled engine control If this error occurs, you should not immediately climb into the control module, first you need to check the following details. Engine brushes Contacts and wiring WATCH WATER TO MOTOR AND TO MOTOR Contacts. Very often, it happens that flows from under the Tan or from under the bearings block, as a result, a simistor can burn or close the engine winding Look at the water to the tacogenerator and check it If all that I listed above is normal, then you can proceed to repair the control unit
H7.		The control module does not see the pressostat Mechanical water level sensor Check simply, it is necessary to breathe a little, if you hear a click of the switching of contacts, most likely it is whole. Now in modern cm, the electronic sensor is widely used, it is impossible to blow it. The best way to check the press costs is to change it on a deliberately working part.
H11		The control unit does not see the rotation of the engine shaft Here it is necessary to check everything connected with the rotation of the drum and a motor shaft See how the Hall sensor behaves, that is, the taogenerator Remove the belt and try to scroll through the drum manually, if it does not spin, it is most likely he fell under him, some foreign object, or bearings failed. As a result, the sensor does not see the rotation of the engine shaft and as a result, this error is displayed on the table Pay attention to the brushes Check the contacts and wiring If, as a result of the procedures done, you did not find breakdown, then you can see the main simistor that controls the engine