Today I will write about what it was necessary to write for a long time ago, as the illumination and crafts from LEDs It becomes more and more, but it happens in them one or two LEDs burns out, and already beauty goes to the background, so that this does not happen, you need to put stabilizers on LED Products. After putting such stabilizers once, we achieve durability and uninterrupted work of our LEDs.

Simple stabilizer for LEDs do it yourself

No one is a secret that lED bulbs, used in the car, as well as most lED tapes Calculated on constant pressure 12 volts. And also everyone knows that the voltage in the onboard network may exceed 15 volts, which may be destructive for sensitive LEDs. The consequence of sharp jumps of voltage LEDs may fail (blink, lose in brightness or what is more common to braid).

With this problem, you can fight And even need, all the more special knowledge and costs it does not require. As you probably have already guessed, to combat high (for LEDs), voltage must be purchased and made a voltage stabilizer. A 12 volt stabilizer can be easily found at any radio component store. Marking can be different, I took the roll 8b (15 rubles) and diode 1N4007 (1 ruble). The diode is necessary to prevent the stirring and put it in it to the input of the stabilizer.

Connection scheme

Boots

Began to connect stabilizers to the backlight (I have already been done). As can be seen in the picture, the voltage in the onboard network with the ignition turned off (battery voltage) is 12.24 volts that for LED tape is not scary, but the voltage in the onboard network with the engineered engine is threatening (for LEDs) 14.44 volts. Next, we see that the stabilizer copes with its task perfectly and gives out the voltage at the output never exceeding 12 volts, which cannot but rejoice.

Single example, in any other email. Chains The situation is similar

Connection scheme

Right front door

LED backlight is incomplete into our lives. Capricious light bulbs fail and the beauty immediately fades. And all because the LEDs cannot work simply from inclusion in the power grid. They must be connected through stabilizers (drivers). The latter prevent voltage drops, failure of components, overheating, etc. This is about how to collect simple schema do it yourself, and goes on the article.

Choosing a stabilizer

In the on-board network of cars working food It is about 13 V, most of the LEDs are suitable for 12 V. Therefore, a voltage stabilizer is usually put, at the output of which 12 V. Thus, normal conditions are provided for working lighting without emergency and premature failure.

At this stage, lovers face the problem of choice: the structures published many, but not all work well. You need to choose the one that is worthy of a favorite vehicle and, moreover:

• really will work;
• provide safety and secure lighting.

The easiest voltage stabilizer made by hand

If you do not have a desire to buy a finished device, then you should learn how to make a simple stable yourself. The pulse stabilizer in the car is difficult to make with their own hands. That is why it is worth seeking a selection amateur schemes and structures linear stabilizers Voltage. The easiest and most common version of the stability consists of a finished chip and resistor (resistance).

Make a current stabilizer for LEDs with your own hands is the easiest of the microcircuit. Assembling parts (see Figure below) is carried out on a perforated panel or universal printed plateau.

5 ampered power supply circuit with voltage regulator from 1.5 to 12 V.

For self-assembly Such a device will be needed:

• plateau size 35 * 20 mm ;
• lD1084 chip;
• diode bridge RS407 or any small diode for reverse current;
• power supply consisting of transistor and two resistance. Designed to turn off the rings when turning on the long or dipped light.

In this case, the LEDs (in the amount of 3 pcs) are connected in series with a current-limiting resistor leveling the current. Such a set, in turn, is parallel to the next same set of LEDs.

Stabilizer for LEDs on the L7812 chip in the car

The current stabilizer for LEDs can be assembled based on a 3-pin voltage regulator. direct current (L7812 series). The attachment device is excellent for food, both LED tapes and separate light bulbs in the car.

Required components for assembling such a scheme:

• microcircuit L7812;
• condenser 330 MKF 16 V;
• condenser 100 μF 16 V;
• rectifier diode per 1 amp (1N4001, for example, or similar Schottky diode);
• wires;
• heat shrinkage 3 mm.

Options can actually be a lot.

Connection diagram based on LM2940CT-12.0

The stabilizer body can be performed from almost any material except wood. When using more than ten LEDs, it is recommended to form an aluminum radiator to the stabilist.

Maybe someone tried and say that it is possible to easily do without unnecessary problems, directly by connecting the LEDs. But in this case, the latter majority of time will be in adverse conditions, therefore will serve for a long time or intensive. But the tuning of expensive cars is poured into a rather large amount.

And about the described schemes, their main advantage is simplicity. No special skills and skills are required for manufacture. However, if the scheme is too complicated, then it becomes not rational to collect it.

Conclusion

The ideal version of connecting LEDs is through. The device balances the fluctuations of the network, with its use will not be afraid of current throwing. In this case, it is necessary to comply with the requirements for the power supply. This will allow you to adjust your network stabilizer.

The device must ensure maximum reliability, stability and stability, preferably for many years. The cost of the collected devices depends on where all the necessary details will be bought.

On video - for LEDs.

In most radioelectronic devices All voltages are relatively standard: 3V, 5V, 9V, 12V, and so on.
As for the output voltage, the standard is usually electrochemical current sources: batteries (1.5V, 9V), batteries, and so on.
But there are cases when it is required to obtain an unusual voltage: for example, 6V or 8V. Tell me this happens extremely rare? By all ...

A little distracted by the topic and give a real example from real practice:
In some models of SARP TVs, the video processor is powered through three-legged stabilizer An7808 (i.e. 8V). With less voltage, the brightness is turned off, when applying 9V, the TV works, but there is no color and the size of frames is increased. In the old good times, the "native" 8-voltage stabilizer was quite problematic and had to "get out" with the native Soviet rins of the KR142NE type on a fixed voltage of 5 and 12 volts.

To solve this problem, two options are possible:
1. Making adjustable source Nutrition.
2. Change stabilization voltage from the stabilizer chip.

Consider both options:

adjustable power supply

The regulated power sources on the Internet are a lot. You can find various schemes both on transistors and in chips, with protection and without protection, but we will look at the easiest option of an adjustable power source, on the LM317 series chip. It can be made on it simple adjustable power supply with output voltage in the range of 1.5 .... 30V and current to 1.5amper. By the way, she has a domestic analogue, it is called KR142EN12A. The inclusion scheme is such:

As you can see anything complicated and cunning: the most ordinary diode bridge , A pair of capacitors at the inlet and outlet and chain adjustment.

Option Second:

How to change the stabilization stabilization voltage

Here, in general, there is also nothing cunning: just just the average (the one that is "common" conclusion) in the crop to connect through Stabilod. See scheme:

The output (and stabilized!) The voltage will rise to the value of the stabilization of the stabilion.
That is, if you take a 5-volt roll and put an additional stabilion, say, by 3.3V, then we obtain 5 + 3,3 \u003d 8.3V at the output.

And if suddenly it is necessary to raise the voltage not much, say just 0.5 .... 1.5V? It is also not difficult: there are no such stabilions, but instead of Stabitron, an ordinary diode can be used (it only turns on it not as stabilion but on the contradiction of the cathode to the "total"). See Figure:

The thing is that p-N transition Diode creates a voltage drop:
for silicon diodes, it is about 0.6-0.7V, for Germany 0.3-0.4V.
It is this property that can be used: if you install, say, two successively turned on silicon diode, the voltage at the outlet of the riveting is approximately 1.4V.

A small addition: in the "last" domestic TVs (which were still produced in the mid-late 1990s), it was possible to meet power supplies where a 12-volt stabilizer was made on the KR142EN8GG chip with the inclusion of middle output through a trim resistor. But the adjustment range in such a scheme was, just say, not very .... so all that was written above more efficiently.

And finally: the main part of the material and the pictures are borrowed from the site practical electronics (with prior consent !!)