Lithium-ionic (Li-IO), charge voltage of one bank: 4.2 - 4.25V. Further by the number of cells: 4.2, 8.4, 12.6, 16.8 .... charge current: for conventional akums is 0.5 from the container in amperes or less. High-strength can be safely charged with a current equal to capacity in amperes (high-strength 2800 mAh, charge 2.8 or less).
Lithium polymer (Li-Po), charge voltage of one bank: 4.2V. Further by the number of cells: 4.2, 8.4, 12.6, 16.8 .... charge current: for conventional akums is equal to capacity in amperes (AKUM 3300 MAH, charge 3.3 or less).
Nickel-metal-hydride (NIMH), charge voltage of one bank: 1.4 - 1.5V. Further by the number of cells: 2.8, 4.2, 5.6, 7, 8.4, 9.8, 11.2, 12.6 ... Current charge: 0.1-0.3 Capacity in amperes (Akum 2700 Mah, charge 0.27 a or less). Charging no more than 15-16 hours.
Lead Acid), charge voltage of one can: 2.3B. Further by the number of cells: 4.6, 6.9, 9.2, 11.5, 13.8 (automotive). Charge current: 0.1-0.3 Capacity in amperes (AKUM 80 AH, charge 16a or less).

Quite often, during testing, squeeze various crafts or devices. And use the batteries, selecting the appropriate stress, it has not been in joy. Therefore, I decided to collect an adjustable power supply. Of the several options that came to mind, but it is possible to remake from the computer ATX of the power supply, or collect linear, or purchase a kit, or collect from ready-made modules - I chose the last.

This assembly option was liked because of the undemanding knowledge of the electronics, the assembly speed, and in the case of which, fast replacement or addition of any of the modules. The total cost of all components came out about $ 15, and the power as a result turned out ~ 100 watts, at the maximum output voltage of 23V.

To create this adjustable power supply, you will need:

1. Pulse power supply 24V 4A
2. Lowering converter on XL4015 4-38V in 1.25-36V 5A
3. Volt-ammeter 3 or 4 characters
4. Two downstream converters on LM2596 3-40V in 1.3-35V
5. Two potentiometers 10k and handles to them
6. Two terminals for bananas
7. Button ON / OFF and Power Connector 220V
8. 12V fan, in my case Slumova for 80mm
9. Housing
10. Stoek and bolts for fastening boards
11. Wires, I used from the deceased ATX power unit.

After finding and acquiring all components, proceed to the assembly according to the scheme below. For it, we will have an adjustable power supply with voltage change from 1.25V to 23V and current limiting to 5a, plus the additional possibility of charging devices through the USB ports consumed the amount of current force, which will be displayed on in a meter.

Pre-locate and cut the holes for a volt ammeter, potentiometer handles, terminals, USB outputs on the front side of the case.

In the form of a platform for mounting modules, we use a piece of plastic. It will protect from unwanted short circuit on the body.

We place and drill the location of opening boards, after which we screw the racks.

We screw the plastic platform to the case.

We drag the terminal on the power supply, and we carry three wires on + and -, marking the cut length. One pair will go to the main converter, the second to the converter to power the fan and the volt ammeter, the third to the converter for the USB outputs.

Install the 220V power connector and the ON / OFF button. Sweep the wires.

We screw the power supply and connect a 220V wire terminal.

With the main power source figured out, now go to the main converter.

We drop the terminals and trimming resistors.

We solder the wires to the potentiometers responsible for adjusting the voltage and current, and to the converter.

Sweep the thick red wire from a meter and the output plus from the main probe to the output plus terminal.

Cooking USB output. Connect the date + and - each USB separately so that the connected device can be charged, and not synchronize. We solder the wires to the panned + and - power contacts. Wires better take it thorough.

We solder the yellow wire from a meter and minus from USB outputs to the output minus terminal.

Power supply fan and in a meter connected to the outputs of an additional converter. For the fan, you can collect the thermostat (diagram below). It will take: the power MOSFET transistor (N channel) (I got it out of the processor's power supply on the motherboard), the trimmer 10 com, the NTC temperature sensor with a resistance of 10 kΩ (thermistor) (it took it from the broken power supply ATX). The thermistor is fastened to the thermoclaim to the main converter chip, or to the radiator on this microcircuit. We configure the trimmer on a certain fan operation temperature, for example, 40 degrees.

We swell to the output plus of the other, the additional converter plus the USB outputs.

We take one pair of wires from the power supply and fall on the input of the main converter, then the second - on the input. Converter for USB, to provide incoming voltage.

We screw the fan with the grille.

We solder the third pair of wires from the power supply to the extra. Converter for fan and in a meter. We screw all to the site.

Connect the wires to the output terminals.

We screw the potentiometers on the front side of the case.

Fresh USB outputs. For reliable fixation, a P-shaped mount was made.

Configure output voltages for add. Converters: 5.3B, taking into account the voltage drop when the load is connected to the USB, and on 12V.

We tighten the wires for a neat indoor type.

Close the case with a lid.

Glue legs for stability.

Adjustable power supply is ready.

Video review:

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I have already done a couple of reviews of such a thing (see photo). Those devices ordered not for himself for friends. Comfortable device for homemade charging, and not only. I also envied and decided to order for myself. I ordered not only a voltammermeter, but also the cheapest voltmeter. I decided to assemble the power supply for my homemade. Which of them put on decisive only after the product collected completely. Surely there will be people who are interested.
I ordered on December 11. There was a small discount. Although so the price is low.
The parcel went for more than two months. The seller gave the left track from Wedo Express. But still the parcel reached and everything works. Formally no complaints.
Since it is this device that decided to imagine into my power supply, I will tell you a little more about it.
The devil came in a standard polyethylene package, "Propupus" from the inside.


At the moment, the goods are not available. But it is not critical. Ali now many offers from sellers with a good rating. Moreover, the price is steadily reduced.
The device was additionally smelted to the anti-static package.

Inside the actual device and wires with connectors.


Key connectors. On the contrary, do not insert.

Sizes are just miniature.

We look at what is written on the seller page.

My translation with adjustments:
-Pasy voltage: 0-100V
- Nonfit power scheme: 4.5-30V
-Mimal resolution (B): 0,01B
- consumption: 15th
-Please current: 0.03-10a
-Mimic resolution (s): 0,01A
All the same, but very brief, on the side of the product.


Immediately disassembled and noticed that there are not enough minor details.


But in previous modules, this place was occupied by a condenser.

But the price has differed in the biggest.
All modules are similar as twin brothers. There is also a connection experience. Small connector is designed to pick up the scheme. By the way, at a voltage below 4V, the blue indicator becomes almost invisible. Therefore, we follow the technical specifications of the device, less than 4.5V do not apply. If you want to measure the voltage below 4V using this device, you need to power the scheme from a separate source through the "thin wire connector".
Current consumption of the device 15mA (when nutrition from 9V "Crown").
Three thick connector - measuring.


There are two reading accuracy regulators (IR and VR). In the photo, everything is clear. Resistors are sturdy. Therefore, I often do not recommend twist (break). Red wires are conclusions for voltage, blue for current, black - "common" (interconnected). The colors of the wires correspond to the color of the indicator glow, do not confuse.
Head chip without name. It was once, but it was destroyed.


And now I will check the accuracy of the readings using the sample installation of P320. Same to enter the calibrated voltages 2B, 5B, 10V, 12V 20V, 30V. Initially, the device undertook for one tenth volt on some limits. The error is insignificant. But I adjusted for myself.


It can be seen that it shows almost perfect. Adjusted to the right resistor (VR). When rotating a ravenment clockwise adds, during rotation against - reduces the readings.
Now I'll see how the current is measured. Sweese the scheme from 9V (separately) and serve an exemplary current from the installation P321


The minimum threshold from which the current of the current of 30mA begins to measure correctly.
As you can see, the current measures quite accurately, so I will not twist the fitting resistor. The device is measured correctly and at currents more than 10a, but at the same time the shunt begins to heat up. Most likely, the current limit is for this reason.


With current 10a, I also do not recommend driving for a long time.
More detailed calibration results in the table.

I liked the devil. But there are deficiencies.
1. Valpi V and A are painted, so they will not be visible in the dark.
2. Reclose measures the current only in one direction.
I would like to pay attention to the fact that the same devices would seem to be, but from different sellers, they can be different from each other. Be careful.
On its pages, sellers often publish incorrect connection schemes. In this case there are no complaints. That's just a little bit (scheme) changed to a more understandable eye.

With this device, in my opinion, everything is clear. Now I will tell about the second device, about the voltmeter.
Ordered on the same day, but another seller:

Bought for US $ 1.19. Even at today's course - funny money. Since in the end I did not put this device, I will briefly go through it. With the same dimensions, the numbers are much larger, which is natural.

This device has no trimmed element. Therefore, it can be used only in the form in which sent. Let's hope for Chinese conscientiousness. But I will check.
Installation is the same P320.

In more detail in the form of a table.


This voltmeter, though it turned out to be several times cheaper than Volammermeter, but his functionality did not suit me. It does not measure the current. And the supply voltage is combined with measuring chains. Therefore, below 2.6V does not measure.
Both devices have absolutely identical dimensions. Therefore, replace one to others in your homemade - the case is a minute.


I decided to assemble the power supply on a more versatile voltammermeter. Devices inexpensive. Loads on the budget are not carried. The voltmeter is still in stock. The main thing is that the device has been good, and the application always exists. Just from the store and pulled the missing components for the power supply.
I have been lying for several years now this is a set of self-relocine.

Scheme is simple, but reliable.

The completeness of checking pointlessly, a lot of time has passed, claims to present late. But everything seems to be in place.

Strip resistor (complete) is too narrow. I do not see his meaning. The rest will come true.
All shortcomings of linear stabilizers I know. Something more worthy I have neither time nor desire or opportunity. If you need a more powerful power supply with high efficiency, then I'll think about it. In the meantime, there will be what Made.
At first I fed the stabilizer fee.
At work found a suitable case.
Rewound the secondary of the torker trance for 25V.


Pick up a powerful radiator for the transistor. All this shoved into the case.
But one of the most important elements of the scheme is a variable resistor. I took a multi-turn type SP5-39B. The highest output voltage accuracy.


That's what happened.


A bit non-zeal, but the main task is made. All electrical parts I defended myself, myself also defended from electrical parts :)
It remains a little "to raise". I will paint the case from the canister and make the front panel more attractive.
That's all. Good luck!

When designing this power source, the main goal was to be so portable as much as possible And when necessary, it was possible to capture with them.

I also have other self-made LBS, but they are only suitable for stationary use.. This time I decided to use LM2596 instead of usually used LM317 or LM350, what would be the current adjustment.

The beauty of this device lies in the fact that you can connect it to any DC source from 7.5 to 28 V. I use the power supply from a laptop for 19 volts. The output voltage will be very close to the input voltage, about the half of the volt less. It can also be used as a voltmeter without food, from voltages from 2.5 to 30 V and as an ammeter. . Also, this device can be charged the battery, but be careful and watch the current!

Now a little about the assembly of this portable universal LBP

Step 1: Chinese modules and tools:

The basis of all this will be lowermodule CC-CV LED DC-DC LM2596 http://ali.pub/1z01w2.

Ammeter with built-in shunt for 10 a http://ali.pub/1z029v

Voltmeter (there are different color options) http://ali.pub/1z02fi

BNS connector + probe http://ali.pub/1z030b http://ali.pub/1z030w

Potentiometers 2 pieces with handles http://ali.pub/1z037p

The rest can be bought in any Radio Store:

Compact housing, can be made of plastic, power supply connector, switch, 3 LEDs - different colors.

Instruments:

Drill and knife (file)

Termoklay

Soldering iron

Drills and drills (6 mm, 7 mm, 10 mm)

This simple scheme, it should be removed slightly constructively.

The first thing you need to do is dropping multi-crushed trimming resistances - 2 extreme and soldering the terminals (or secure the taps from our potentiometers that will be installed on the body, for the convenience of control)

Also, if you do not have a transparent case, you need to withdraw the LEDs on the front panel of the case. For installation it is more convenient to take 3mm or 5 mm LEDs.

When charging the batteries, the green LED lights up if the current is less than 0.1 from the tuned current. This parameter can be adjusted using a medium multi-cohered resistor that remains up. It really is not necessary, since you have an already built-in digital milemmeter, and you see what the battery is charging.

This scheme is calculated on "3A" but not more (critical load current \u003d 3 a). I recommend adding a radiator on the chip, then the current can be supplied to 3 and not brief.

After adding the radiator, calmly dodged the device to 3 A, the radiator was heated, but not critical.

Passed the radiator with a screed.

This is such a modification of a compact-percent universal LBP / power supply.

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Hello everyone. Everyone who is engaged in electronics should be. If a reluctance is reluctant or you are a novice radio amateur - this article is specifically written for you. Immediately let's talk about the characteristics of the power supply and its difference from popular types of BP on LM317 or LM338.

Modules for BP

We will collect a pulse power supply, but we will not solder nothing, we will not buy anything that the Chinese voltage adjustment module has already already installed, such a module can give 30 volts 5 amps. Agree that not every analog BP is capable of this, and what losses in the form of heat, as the transistor or chip is excessively tensioning. I do not write about the specific type of module and its scheme - they are all sorts.

Now indication - here we will not to invent anything, we will take a ready-made display module, as with a voltage control module.

The way to feed all this from the network 220 V - read on. There are two ways here.

1. The first is to search for a ready-made transformer or wind your.
2. The second is to take a pulse BP on the desired voltage and current, or refund under the desired characteristics.

And yes, I forgot to say that 32 volts can be installed on the control module, but it is better than 30 volts of 5 amps, you need to be careful too much, since the control circuit suffers 5 amps, but no more, but gives everything to The transformer is because it is easily burning.

Assembly

The assembly process itself is still engaged. Let's tell me how it appears with the components.

• Pulse power supply from a 19 volt 3.5 amp laptop.
• Management module.
• Indication module.

That's all, yes, I did not forget to add anything, but probably we need some old building. I went from the Soviet car radio, would also go any other, but separately I want to praise the case from the PC Drive DVD.

We collect our future power supply before attaching the board to the body, you need to isolate them, I gave a substrate from a thick film and then all the boards can be attached to two-way tape.

But when it came to the variable resistors to adjust the voltage and current limitations, I realized that I had no, well, not that there is no needed - there is no needed nominal, namely, 10 K. But on the board they are, and I enrolled as follows: Found two bedroom changers (so as not to pity it was), seized the handles and thought them to solder them to change that they were on the board why they were - I dropped them, and I climbed the screw.

But nothing came out, it was possible to clarify only when it did this nonsense through the heat shrink. But she worked, it suits me, and how long she will work - find out.

Optionally, you can paint the case, it didn't work very well with me, but better than just metal.

As a result, we turned out a very compact lightweight laboratory power supply, which has a short-circuit protection, current restriction, and of course, voltage adjustment. And all this is done very smoothly due to the multi-turn resistors that were dropped from the control board. Voltage adjustment was from 0.8 volts to 20. Current restriction from 20 mA to 4 A. Good luck to everyone, with you Kalyan.super.bos.

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