HDMI cable for its structure is reminded by a well-known "twisted pair" well, but it only consists of a larger number - 19. Knowing the cable pinout circuit, you can connect an HDMI outlet or restore the damaged connector.

Many may ask: why repair a damaged HDMI cable or its connector? It is easier to buy a new wire, the benefit of prices for it is now more than democratic. For example, you can purchase within 1000 rubles. And it will meet all modern standards: High Speed \u200b\u200bWith Ethernet, 3D and 4K support.

We answer: what if the cable is laid in the wall or corrugation and it is not possible to pull it out and replace it? Or are you a connoisseur of top Hi-End brands and you use HDMI cables only premium class, the cost of which start from several thousand rubles per 1 meter?!

In this case, it is possible to significantly save on the purchase of a new cable, replacing a damaged HDMI connector.

So, without going into technical details, consider the pinout of any modern HDMI cable (High Speed \u200b\u200bClass with Ethernet).

Type A Connector HDMI pinout (19pin)

Pinout HDMI cable from inside

As you can see, the HDMI cable is divided into 5 groups of 3 veins. And 4 more veins go separately (not grouped).

There is no single color marking lived, and each cable manufacturer may have its own marking. In our HDMI cable instance, the following was used:

Let's try on the example this cablewhich is sold in cutting (there are also such), demonstrate its cutting and ending.

Cutting HDMI Cable

1. We clean the HDMI cable from the outer shell.

2. Screen braid shift, freeing the wires of the wires.

3. We form the contact groups and we clean them.

4. As a connector to the cable, we use the socket module.

This module It is convenient because you can independently end the HDMI cable without a special set of expensive crimping equipment. And placing it in the frame, you will have a full HDMI socket.

5. According to the table, each wire is clamped into the clermets of the module.

Thus, when repairing or construction, you can lay the HDMI cable required length into the wall. Click it from both sides by the rosette module Dr.HD HDMI under the frit.

Consider the case when the HDMI cable broke the connector.

We act on the same items.

1. Clean the cable, we release and form a group of wires.

2. Since the cross section lived here less and the wire is multiple, their irradiation will be required.

To find out which of the A / B / C / D / E groups, the tester will be required (transk). Only after you have determined the correct grouping of wires, as well as four wires without a group, you can proceed to crimp.

We successfully tested the operation of this restored cable. The source was Blue-ray drive and 3D roller. We did not see any digital interference.

HDMI cable for its structure is reminded by a well-known "twisted pair" well, but it only consists of a larger number - 19. Knowing the cable pinout circuit, you can connect an HDMI outlet or restore the damaged connector.

Many may ask: why repair a damaged HDMI cable or its connector? It is easier to buy a new wire, the benefit of prices for it is now more than democratic. For example, 5 meter HDMI cable can be purchased within 500 rubles. And it will meet all modern standards: High Speed \u200b\u200bWith Ethernet, 3D and 4K support.

We answer: what if the cable is laid in the wall or corrugation and it is not possible to pull it out and replace it? Or are you a connoisseur of top Hi-End brands and you use HDMI cables only premium class, the cost of which start from several thousand rubles per 1 meter?!

In this case, it is possible to significantly save on the purchase of a new cable, replacing a damaged HDMI connector.

So, without going into technical details, consider the pinout of any modern HDMI cable (High Speed \u200b\u200bClass with Ethernet).

Type A Connector HDMI pinout (19pin)

Pinout HDMI cable from inside

As you can see, the HDMI cable is divided into 5 groups of 3 veins. And 4 more veins go separately (not grouped).

There is no single color marking lived, and each cable manufacturer may have its own marking. In our HDMI cable instance, the following was used:

Let us try on the example of this cable that is sold in the cutting (there are also such), to demonstrate its cutting and ending.

Cutting HDMI Cable

1. We clean the HDMI cable from the outer shell.

2. Screen braid shift, freeing the wires of the wires.

3. We form the contact groups and we clean them.

4. As a connector to the cable, we use the rosette module Dr.HD HDMI under crimp.

This module is convenient because you can independently end the HDMI cable without a special set of expensive crimping equipment. And placing it in the frame, you will have a full HDMI socket.

5. According to the table, each wire is clamped into the clermets of the module.

Thus, when repairing or construction, you can lay the HDMI cable required length into the wall. Click it from both sides by the rosette module Dr.HD HDMI under the frit.

Consider the case when the HDMI cable broke the connector.

We act on the same items.

1. Clean the cable, we release and form a group of wires.

2. Since the cross section lived here less and the wire is multiple, their irradiation will be required.

To find out which of the A / B / C / D / E groups, the tester will be required (transk). Only after you have determined the correct grouping of wires, as well as four wires without a group, you can proceed to crimp.

We successfully tested the operation of this restored cable. The source was Blue-ray drive and 3D roller. We did not see any digital interference.

It often happens that the HDMI cables are consistent. The author of the articles at one time worked as a seller-consultant in the store household appliancesTherefore, it knows how bad knows how unreliable in places where the connectors are located, that is, the ends of the cables.

These wires are very poorly carrying bends and regular reinstallations. Ideally, they need to put them, and do not touch at all, but in practice, we often connect to TV laptops and other techniques, and HDMI, you want, do not want, begins to suffer.

If you have happened so that the signal cable has stopped, but in stock there is another from which you can remove the working connectors, then you can learn how to dispens the HDMI cable, and continue to enjoy all the advantages digital television. Well, or run in the store for a new one - who what!

Many readers may have a reasonable question - why communicate with the soldering, when for quite modest money you can go and buy a new one that we will reply the following:

• Firstly, not always under the side of the store in which you can purchase such products, and not always such shops are open - especially relevant for villages and small towns.
• Secondly, not everyone craves to buy a cheap cable, especially if before it was good - agree that the example is controversial, but still.
• Thirdly, imagine the situation that you already have two cables, and both have one broken and one working connector. Why not take, and not make one worker cable without spending money? It is interesting and economically!
• Fourth, the length of the available HDMI cable can be rapidly missing you, and you want to lengthen it. Well, or the connector simply does not go into the hole in the wall and you do not want to expand this very hole.

In general, the reasons can be as you like, since the situation, sometimes, the most unforeseen.

How to understand that the cause of a malfunction in the cable

How can a problem with a faulty cable can be manifested:

• The TV gives the inscription on the screen: "No video signal";

• The image is fuzzy, covered with noise, with a possible color displacement toward blue, red or green;

• Instead of the usual clip art, the TV gives you here such artifacts in the form of strips of squares and other patterns;

• Image on site, but there is no sound.
• Other symptoms are also possible, but the essence is one - first of all are always checked for the performance of cables, and then the technique.

Do not think that we mock, but really, very often, inexperienced users cannot understand that the active entrance on the TV is changed. So if you see this snow on the screen, then take the remote, look for the input shift button (do not know it "in the face", look into the instruction), which may be called "Input", "TV \\ in", "Source" and Other. Next, choose from the proposed list you need.

If you have at least once kept a similar cable in your hands, you should know that its "body" is made sufficiently strong and flexible, so if there are no visible damage on it, the problem can only be associated with the connectors. How to make sure that fault?

Here is a brief, but effective instruction:

• First of all, try to move the connector slightly to the TV.
• If nothing happens, then pull it out HDMI and stick it back - sometimes such measures help restore the image and sound, as it often happens that there is no normal contact.
• The next step is to change the cable and input, for example, to connect tulips that most video equipment still are equipped. If the image is restored, then you can draw conclusions.
• Make a visual inspection of the connectors - they can be curved or divided into generally. Here all questions are immediately removed.

Contacts VGA, DVI, HDMI, YC, SCART connectors

Spacking cables for signals YUV (Y / PBCB / PRCR), VGA HD15, DVI, HDMI, S-Video, SCART (Peritel, Euroconnector).

Contacts VGA, DVI, HDMI, YC, SCART connectors

VGA HD15 Connector Contacts

Cont.	Signal	Description
1	Red	Channel R (red) (75 ohms, 0.7 V)
2	Green.	Channel G (green) (75 ohms, 0.7 V)
3	Blue	Channel in (blue) (75 ohms, 0.7 V)
4	ID2.	Identification Bit 2.
5	GND.	Land
6	RGnd.	Channel land R.
7	GGnd.	Channel G.
8	BGnd.	Channel Land B.
9	Key	No contact (key)
10	SGND.	Land synchronization
11	Id0	Identification bit 0.
12	ID1 OR SDA	Identification Bit 1 or DDC data
13	Hsync or Csync.	Scroll or composite synchronization
14	Vsync.	Personnel synchronization
15	ID3 OR SCL.	Identification Bit 3 or DDC Tracies

Spacking cable KRAMER BC5X5S (5-coax)

Spack Cable Kramer BC3X2T7S (3-coax, presentation)

Solving YUV signal (Y / PBCB / PRCR) from the VGA HD15 connector (for Kramer VP-41 4 (XL) scales, VP-419XL, VP-420, VP-421, VP-724XL, VP-728, VP-729, VP-730, VP-731, VP-725XL, VP-727, VP-747)

Contacts connector DVI-I / DVI-D

Cont.	Signal (eng.)	Signal (Rus)
1	T.M.D.S DATA 2-	T.M.D.S 2-
2	T.M.D.S DATA 2+	T.M.D.S 2+ data
3	T.M.D.S DATA 2/4 SHIELD	Screen for data T.M.D.S 2 and 4
4	T.M.D.S DATA 4-	T.M.D.S 4-
5	T.M.D.S DATA 4+	T.M.D.S 4+ data
6	DDC Clock.	Tracked DDC.
7	DDC Data.	DDC data
8	Analog Vert. Sync.	Analog Personnel Sync.
9	T.M.D.S DATA 1-	T.M.D.S data 1-
10	T.M.D.S DATA 1+	T.M.D.S 1+ data
11	T.M.D.S DATA 1/3 SHIELD	Screen for T.M.D.S 1 and 3 data
12	T.M.D.S DATA 3-	T.M.D.S 3-
13	T.M.D.S DATA 3+	T.M.D.S 3+ data
14	+ 5V Power	Power +5 B.
15	GND.	Land
16	Hot Plug Detect.	Sensor "Hot" connection
17	T.M.D.S DATA 0-	T.M.D.S data 0-
18	T.M.D.S DATA 0+	T.M.D.S 0+ data
19	T.M.D.S DATA 0/5 SHIELD	Screen for data T.M.D.S 0 and 5
20	T.M.D.S DATA 5-	T.M.D.S 5-
21	T.M.D.S DATA 5+	T.M.D.S 5+ data
22	T.M.D.S CLOCK SHIELD.	Screen for tacht t.m.d.s
23	T.M.D.S CLOCK +.	Tracked t.m.d.s +.
24	T.M.D.S CLOCK-	Tracked t.m.d.s -
C1.	Analog Red	Analog Channel R.
C2.	Analog Green.	Analog Channel G.
C3.	Analog Blue	Analog Channel B.
C4.	Analog Horz Sync.	Analog line sync.
C5.	Analog Ground	Analog land

HDMI connector contacts (Single Link, Type A, up to version 1.4 inclusive)

Cont.	Signal (eng.)	Signal (Rus)
1	T.M.D.S DATA 2+	T.M.D.S 2+ data
2	T.M.D.S DATA 2 SHIELD	T.M.D.S 2 data screen
3	T.M.D.S DATA 2-	T.M.D.S 2-
4	T.M.D.S DATA 1+	T.M.D.S 1+ data
5	T.M.D.S DATA 1 SHIELD	T.M.D.S 1 data screen
6	T.M.D.S DATA 1-	T.M.D.S data 1-
7	T.M.D.S DATA 0+	T.M.D.S 0+ data
8	T.M.D.S DATA 0 SHIELD	T.M.D.S 0 data screen 0
9	T.M.D.S DATA 0-	T.M.D.S data 0-
10	T.M.D.S CLOCK +.	Tracked t.m.d.s +.
11	T.M.D.S CLOCK SHIELD.	Screen for tacht t.m.d.s
12	T.M.D.S CLOCK-	Tracked t.m.d.s -
13	Cec.	Consumer Electronics Control Network
14	Utility.	Used for HEAC (Ethernet and Reverse Audio Channel)
15	DDC Clock.	Tracked DDC.
16	DDC Data.	DDC data
17	DDC / CEC GND	Earth for DDC and CEC
18	+ 5V Power	Power +5 B.
19	Hot Plug Detect.	Sensor "Hot" connection

S-VIDEO connector contacts (YC, S-VHS)

Standard 4-pin MINIDIN connector

7-pin MINIDIN connector (found in aTI video cards and etc.)

10-pin connector (in the ATI All-in-Wonder video cards)

Cont.	Signal	Description
1	C.	Channel C (color)
2	S / PDIF Ground	S / PDIF signal
3	SPDIF.	SPDIF signal (digital audio)
4	GND.	Land
5	GND.	Land
6	R.	Audio, Right Channel
7	GND.	Audio land
8	Y.	Channel Y (Brightness + Synch.)
9	V.	Composite video
10	L.	Audio, left canal

10-pin connector (in Matrox G450 video cards, etc.)

Cont.	Signal	Description
1	C (S-Video)	Channel C (color)
2	GND.	Land
3	Y.	Channel Y (Brightness + Synch.)
4	RGB SWITCHING CONTROL	Control signal
5	Composite Sync.	Output of composite synchronization
6	GND.	Land
7	V.	Composite video
8	L.	Audio, left canal
9	GND.	Land
10	R.	Audio, Right Channel

SCART connector contacts (PERITEL, EUROCONNECTOR)

Cont.	Signal	Description	Level
1	AOR.	Audio output, right	0.5 V RMS.
2	Air.	Audio input, right	0.5 V RMS.	\u003e 10 com
3	AOL.	Output audio, left + mono	0.5 V RMS.
4	AGND.	Earth for audio
5	B GND.	Earth for RGB Blue
6	Ail.	Log in audio, left + mono	0.5 V RMS.	\u003e 10 com
7	B.	Login RGB Blue (Blue)	0.7 B.	75 Ohm.
8	SWTCH	Input, switching the TV mode, depending on the type of TV - AUDIO / RGB / 16: 9, sometimes inclusion AUX (old TVs)	10-12 B.
9	G GND.	Earth RGB Green.
10	CLKOUT.	Data 2: ClockPulse Out, only in old video recorders
11	G.	Login RGB Green (Green)	0.7 B.	75 Ohm.
12	Data.	Data 1: Data Output
13	R gnd.	RGB RGB Earth
14	DataGnd.	Land for DATA, remote control, only in old video recorders
15	R.	RGB Red (red) or channel input C	R: 0.7 V; C: 0.3 V	75 Ohm.
16	Blnk.	Blanking Signal input, TV mode switching (composite / RGB), "Fast" signal (new TVs)	RGB \u003d 1-3 V; COMP \u003d 0-0.4 V	75 Ohm.
17	VGnd.	Earth composite video
18	Blnkgnd.	BLANKING SIGNAL EART (FOR CONT. 8 or 16)
19	Vout.	Compact video output	1 B.	75 Ohm.
20	Vin.	Input Composite Video or Channel Y (Brightness)	1 B.	75 Ohm.
21	Shield.	Protective Screen / Case

Previous

What is the HDMI interface know almost everything, it has long been popular with many users due to its improved, compared to other interfaces, characteristics. If we talk about the characteristics of the HDMI cable, then, first of all, you need to remember the data transfer rate, which, depending on the HDMI standard, becomes more and more. For example, the HDMI standard allows data to transmit data at a speed of up to 18 Gb / s. Another important characteristic of the cable HDMI is its ability to transmit an audio and video signal at the same time, and in the already mentioned standard 2.0, the transmission of up to 32 audio channels with a frequency of 1536 kHz is supported.

HDMI interfaces are successfully used both in computers and laptops and televisions and mobile devices. Sometimes there is a need to repair a HDMI cable or connector, it is quite thin and not easy. To do this, you need to have a Cable HDMI pinout scheme, which will allow you to navigate in the assignment of each individual wire.

What is a pinout? The pinout is the designation of the functions of contacts or wires, followed by their numbering, is also sometimes called a splitting.

Pickup HDMI Connector

Pickup HDMI cable

As you can see, pinout cable and connector is different mirror display Contact functions, which is logical. To make it easier to navigate the HDMI connector, the wires have different colors of the plastic coating, the decay of the HDMI cable is shown below.