Polaris humidifier power supply diagram. Do-it-yourself air humidifier repair - expert advice. Internal structure of the humidifier

A humidifier is a healthy, fairly safe (in terms of electric shock or fire) household appliance. This is a very simple device. It is not difficult to repair a humidifier with your own hands, since neither disassembly nor some types of diagnostics are problems.

In order to carry out repairs, it is necessary to understand the functioning of the humidifier. The devices are divided into 3 groups:

Ultrasonic humidifiers are considered the safest and most effective. Therefore, in the modern market, they literally dominate. Ultrasonic humidifiers Boneco, Electrolux, Bork, Venta are among the best-selling brands from the household appliance sector in question. Consider the features of their repair.

Electrical problems

Short circuits and other electrical problems are common. It often happens due to the user's fault or due to damage to the device due to a fall. If everything is clear with the last reason - the device fell, the gasket could have shifted, part of the case could crack, then the first one needs to be clarified.

The humidifier circuit has two technological holes with which the user interacts. Water is poured into one, steam comes out of the other. Most appliance owners have no idea how the appliances work inside. Therefore, attempts to pour liquid through the vapor outlet holes are repeated very often.

The red arrow points to the water hole

To repair a humidifier from Electrolux, Boneko or any other brand that does not show signs of life, you must first check (by disconnecting the device from the mains):

• availability of power supply in the outlet;
• the condition of the fuse in the plug, which the Venta models are equipped with;
• the integrity of the power cable;
• no breaks in the wire at the points of exit from the plug and entry into the case;

If possible, you should try to turn on the humidifier by replacing the power supply if the model is powered by a voltage converter.

If everything is in order, and the humidifier does not work, you need to open the case (more on this below). Having gained access to the insides of the device, it is worth examining it for moisture. If it is, you will have to deal with the electrical part. Elimination of this problem requires the intervention of specialists.

However, the humidifier may not start due to automatic protection blocking... To make sure that this reason is absent, you need to inspect all parts of the device that use electricity. The control board must be free of blackening or irregularly colored parts; the fan coils, if visible, must also be uniformly colored.

If everything is visually in order, it is worth removing all moisture from the insides of the device and drying it thoroughly within 24 hours. Such repairs help to restore the performance of the humidifiers in most cases.

Opening the case

The humidifiers are easy to disassemble. For this:

1. The device turns off and disconnects from the network.
2. The container with water is removed.
3. The body turns over.
4. To gain access to the insides of the device, several screws are unscrewed. They can be hidden under the rubber feet. In rare cases, the case is equipped with latches that hold parts of it. To search for them, you need to use a thin blade: by leading them along the line of contact, you can find the place of the fastener, which should be pressed.

After disassembling the humidifier housing, all of its components will be visible. These are gaskets, fan unit, membrane sector, liquid inlet pipe, control board, various parts for converting air flow and steam removal.

Typical malfunctions and their elimination

Repair of the humidifier, if we are not talking about the electrical part, can be done by hand. Malfunctions are as follows:

1. Unpleasant smell when working. In this case, repairing the humidifier is very simple. This is due to commonplace pollution and the growth of bacteria or mold. It is necessary to remove, clean and rinse each of the parts, and based on the results of a visual inspection, it is possible to decide on the replacement of individual elements or the unit as a whole. Do not use aggressive chemicals for cleaning. The best choice if you do not want to mess with warm water - a weak solution of hydrogen peroxide or ammonia.
2. The humidifier makes a sound, but the water level does not drop. It is necessary to check the condition of the feed motor and the pressure conversion diaphragm (ultrasonic type). The cause of the breakdown may be dirt, pump failure, or displacement of structural elements as a result of the fall of the device. The parts of the device are inspected, if necessary, they are corrected or cleaned, the device is tested.
3. If no streams of steam are visible, the cause is most often a clogged outlet. Check the outlet grille, the operation of the blowing fan, clean the filter. If there is a suspicion of engine failure, you should call a specialist.

Most humidifier breakdowns, if we take into account the simplicity of its design, are associated with pollution. Therefore, if cleaning and checking the position of all structural elements do not bring results, and there are no visual manifestations of problems with the electrical part, it is most reasonable to seek qualified help.

Good afternoon! Today I will tell and show as instructions how to repair the Supra HDS-111 ultrasonic humidifier with your own hands. Do you know how to humidify the air in a room without a humidifier? Our grandmothers and mothers also did this with the help of basins of hot water and wet towels on the batteries.

I myself have experienced many ways to humidify a room in an apartment in a children's room. Basins take up a lot of space and work while the water is hot, that is, about half an hour. A basin with heated water consumes a lot of electricity. Wet battery towels keep the house moist for longer. For about an hour or two, if you lower one edge of the towel into a nearby container of water, it will last for several hours. Cheap and cheerful - the folk method. However, all these wet dances take a lot of time. Therefore, I decided to choose the best one for my family and put it in the children's room when the heating is turned on. It turns out that all pediatricians will confirm that humid cool air is safest when spreading winter colds... The mucous membrane does not dry out and the barrier from bacteria is preserved.

Choosing a humidifier

I chose for a long time and finally took, in my opinion, optimal model in terms of price-quality-aesthetics. In general, I bought ultrasonic humidifier in a white case. A sort of ovoid backlit thing. except appearance and dimensions, I especially liked the adjustment of the direction of steam movement. Not up, but at an angle, and even the steam jet is formed quite powerful and high.

Since the steam comes out cooled, it immediately tends to fall below the heated air. So the humidifier in the room should be set as high as possible. I have it on the water cooler. At chest level and at the ceiling, it does not hit and the steam disperses well around the room. Recently buzzed - had to be repaired.

So today I will tell and show as instructions how to disassemble and clean ultrasonic humidifier. First, remove the container with water and carefully inspect the water pan with an ultrasonic emitter. Despite the fact that I only poured purified water into the humidifier, after six months of use, a certain dark coating appeared on the internal surfaces.

It seems that some of the dust with the air from the room settled on the insides of the cooler and caused the appearance of this plaque. And on white plastic it is clearly visible. This model has a few grooves in the pallet, so everything can be cleaned well with a toothbrush or rag.

To disassemble the bottom of the humidifier

you need to drain and carefully wipe off the water, turn the case over and unscrew four self-tapping screws, three of them for a Phillips screwdriver. And one with a sly hat - under.

I want to say that this cunning self-tapping screw can be easily twisted with an ordinary asterisk bat without a deepening. The main thing is to have a bit long enough to reach the screw head.

Inside the humidifier

Unfortunately, most humidifiers are built on this principle, so the only way out is to put a light air filter in front of the fan.

In addition to the fan, the humidifier housing contains two boards - a power supply and a control board. What can be controlled in a humidifier, you ask? And there you can control the power of oscillations of the piezoelectric emitter, blinking LED backlight, fan speed and monitoring of water level sensors and thermal protection sensor. To remove the control and power boards, you need to unscrew several self-tapping screws shown in the photo.

These deposits were not only on the contacts of the microcircuits, but also directly on the board.

The boards of the humidifier are prudently coated by the Chinese with varnish, perhaps this prevents the circuits from burning out, but the coating is very uneven.

Salt deposits have even climbed onto the radioelements themselves - all this must be cleaned out without fail.

We especially check the contacts of the air humidifier control controller - they must be well soldered, without microcracks and plaque.

Emitter diagnostics

After removing the boards, you need to make sure integrity of contacts and surfaces - the most important element of a humidifier. After unscrewing two screws, remove the metal cover of the piezoelectric emitter.

We examine the surface of the piezoelectric emitter - there should be no microcracks on it, if there are microcracks, then it's time to think about buying a new emitter that is suitable in size.

Same checking soldered contacts for the absence of white bloom or microcracks in the solder.

The seat for the piezoelectric transducer should not have any deposits or irregularities to prevent water leakage after reassembling the humidifier.

To clean the humidifier fan,

you need to disassemble the body as a shell. To do this, you need to release the three latches around the perimeter of the fan housing.

A lot of dust has collected on the impeller - sometimes this dust at high speeds can upset the impeller balance.

It turned out humidifier fan non-separable, that is, it has a plastic-filled impeller axle bushing. In such cases, the impeller can sometimes be removed by hand. But it didn't work out that way with this fan. I had to carefully drill the sealing spot.

We drill until we hit the impeller axis. And we constantly remove the shavings so that they do not fall asleep inside.

In principle, you can completely re-drill the hole to remove the plastic washer and free the impeller shaft. I acted differently - I poured alcohol into the resulting hole, twisted it, dried it, put a needle in and squeezed out a thick grease from the syringe. He turned on the fan so that the grease was evenly distributed along the axis and sealed the hole with a factory sticker.

I want to say right away - this procedure did not help very well. It looks like the lubricant has gone badly, so next time I will disassemble this fan thoroughly. When reassembling, the fan must be glued with hot melt glue, as it was installed at the factory.

Cleaning the humidifier board

After the fan, be sure to clean the boards from white plaque. It is better to wash the humidifier boards with alcohol and cover with an additional layer of varnish. This is to improve reliability and short circuit protection.

If the humidifier burned out board, you can find a similar board in.

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Once, with the help of a free classifieds newspaper, I was fortunate enough to buy a faulty domestic (admittedly Chinese, but reasonably good build) humidifier called Novex for almost nothing (for only $ 4!). “Lucky” - not only because the price was so ridiculous, but also because there was absolutely nothing to do for the next few evenings. And here - such an opportunity to work with both your head and your hands! Moreover, the repair of an ultrasonic humidifier was new to me.

The seller said that the performance regulator is not working. Autopsy and measurements showed: does not "plow" pulse unit supply the humidifier. Doesn't start at all. I still hoped that the fuse had blown or the diode had been broken, but everything turned out to be much worse: the field power transistor had broken off. In this case, the resistors were intact, the power diodes were serviceable. Only the "field worker" of the ultrasonic "Novex" was cut off by the internal diode and, therefore, needed to be replaced (such things are not repaired). As a result (the very next day) I bought an analogue of the “deceased” component.

However, the miracle did not happen. He smeared the new transistor with thermal grease, soldered it where it should, turned on the ultrasonic humidifier - and in response there was silence. The repair had to be continued as the transformer had not started yet.

A multimeter in hand - and we call everything in a row. I started with low-power glass diodes. And when I got to the zener diodes, I found that they were in short circuit... Dropped out. I went to the store with one zener diode. True, the seller at first was delighted that he could not determine the voltage by marking. And when we tried together to determine the value, and I said that the zener diodes were in serial circuit on the contrary, he completely made round eyes: they say, this does not happen. I probably would not have believed it myself, but I myself was soldering them ... In short, I bought a couple of 100 volt Zener diodes at my own peril and risk. And he was right! With a new filling and a repaired power supply unit began to work. And, of course, the entire ultrasonic humidifier. And after rummaging around in the reference books, I later learned that the zener diodes turn on in the opposite direction to extinguish the alternating voltage.

By the way, when making repairs to an ultrasonic humidifier, I have repeatedly paid attention to good quality printed circuit boards... It turns out that not everything is bad that is collected in China! By the way, on the forums (the same Yandex-Market) people are satisfied with Novex. Moreover, the device is inexpensive (around a thousand rubles). At the same time, he has a large tank, good performance... There is an ionizer, or rather an ozonizer: a small glass flask with which the air flow created by the fan "meets". True, there is almost no ozonation in my apparatus. I see only the blue glow of the bulb. Most likely, this is due to the design: one electrode is covered with a flask, and the second is a mesh that is put on this flask. In this case, the path of the released ozone is blocked by glass.

A humidifier is not a useless thing, even if it is customary to think otherwise. Correctly setting the case, significantly reduce the incidence of domestic diseases. The main thing is to fit the indicators of relative humidity with the necessary framework, doctors recommend a value of 45 - 60 percent. Although 65 lethal consequences will not cause. The problem is limited to the purchase of a hygrometer, although not everyone can assemble a piezoelectric steam generator. What will someone who started repairing a humidifier face with their own hands? We plan to discuss it today.

What are the air humidifiers?

With a decrease in humidity, the mucous membranes of the respiratory tract dry out. The epithelium is seeded by bacteria, which find favorable conditions for reproduction. Mucus ceases to protect the surface of cells, microflora destroys the membranes without interference, causing infectious diseases. A competent engineer will name three designs, from strength, one differs little from an electric kettle:

In fireplaces, the stream of water molecules is illuminated by a lamp, so a real imitation of a flame is obtained that there is a fear of getting burned. Cold stream of evaporated liquid. In order for the element to work, the device is equipped with a special mechanical strapping. There is no other word for the sight of miracles. The tank contains a recess with a radiator, a float is located on the side. In order not to make holes in the bottom, the sensor is magnetic. When the water in the humidifier runs out, the float goes down, the field is captured by the sensitive element of the electronic board. As a result, the device stops working.

In Chinese models, you can find an impeller, through a small rise in the bottom, it pumps air inward. Let's try to describe the design so that buyers avoid mistakes:

• A teapot-like bowl sits on top of a housing containing the electronics.
• In the center of the tank there is a vertical vent located above the radiator.
• On the side there is a recess complemented by a float.
• The container is filled from below, the lid has a valve through which water is gradually etched.
• The tank is in the form of a cylinder with a vent-shaped cutout, the liquid seeps into the working chamber slowly.
• For the fastest distribution of steam to the piezoelectric element of the air humidifier, a turbine hole comes out. Creates overpressure, steam rushes out. Air is sucked in from under the base, through the cracks.

Please note: if you pour water into the vent, the liquid will flow through the turbine hole to electronic circuits causing a temporary or permanent malfunction. The devices are not grounded, making them extremely life-threatening.

Internal structure of the humidifier

The humidifier device includes power boards, generating ultrasonic frequency. At the same time, fungi and microbes are killed inside. Readers are familiar with the reviews of the VashTechnik portal concerning water purifiers. Whole pools are disinfected with ultrasonic emitters, there is no place for microbes inside the generators. The difference is in power, for a small tank you don't need much.

The power board generates the supply voltage of the active elements of the amplifier with a positive feedback... The cascade generates oscillations. The transistor is mounted on a radiator to remove excess heat. The turbine engine is powered by rectified voltage, we do not exclude the presence of models using 230 volts.

First of all, we look at the nature of the malfunction. A working piezoelectric element can be easily identified by bubbling water. If steam does not escape, the turbine motor is probably to blame. We call the windings, if in order, we measure the supply voltage. The tests performed will help determine the cause. In the absence of movement of the piezoelectric element, the first suspicion of a generator, a quartz crystal is quite durable. You should start with a power transistor, here a remote thermometer comes in handy. The generator generates heat during operation. Avoid sticking your hand while the humidifier is energized; you can point the remote meter to the desired point. As a last resort, remove the plug from the socket, touch the surface of the radiator with your finger. If completely cold, chances are that the generator has broken.

Initially, we check the supply voltage, if ok, the transistor rings. If bipolar, each junction behaves like a diode, giving low DC resistance in one direction. In the field, it all depends on the type, you will have to look through the directory. Sometimes the oscillations are controlled by a triac, the likelihood of such a situation seems unlikely. This is not a power unit taking a drastic approach. If this turned out to be the case, check the control pulse generator for operability.

Capacitors are ringing, checked for swelling. Resistors should not be black (although most will continue to work). The board tracks are checked for integrity. What else can break in the humidifier? Power board!

Air humidifier power supply

Usually in modern devices a switching power supply with stabilization of the voltage rectified by Schottky diodes is used. At the input, after the power cord, there is a block (or a pair of terminals), from which the process of converting 230 volts into the desired rating, frequency, begins. If an outdated power supply operates on a transformer that outputs 50 Hz, in our case everything is different.

One or more filters are installed at the inlet of the humidifier. This includes capacitors, chokes, resistors. Each item is tested for validity. Separately, the voltage of a high-frequency pulse generator is formed on the zener diode, controlled by the electrode of a thyristor, transistor, triac or other key element. You can find out the key by the radiator, a lot of heat is dissipated here.

Separately, there is protection by varistors. Variable resistances that depend strongly on the applied voltage. If the voltage skyrockets, the varistor closes the circuit to ground, fuses. Protection is triggered, the device turns off. The varistor is at the generator input, there is no separate power supply unit for the element, of course, it cannot consume 230 volts.

The fuses of the switching power supplies are replaced with low-resistance resistors. It will burn out from overload, at the same time it will limit the current, protecting the elements of the humidifier circuit from burning. A feature of switching power supplies is that in a normal state, the current does not flow through the fuses. Therefore, they use the folk method of localizing the breakdown. A lamp turns on in the fuse circuit, if it is on, the troubleshooting continues.

The diode bridge rectifies the voltage, after the key transistor, arriving at the transformer with high-frequency pulses. It is possible to reduce the weight of the windings without losing power. The transformer turns out to be compact, losses are reduced. At the output of the cascade, there are Schottky diodes that smooth out the ripple filters.

If 230 volts is used to power the device, the high voltage lines run separately from the formation path direct current... The turbine can be switched on by a relay, the voltage for which is formed by a transistor switch, a zener diode. Viewed according to the scheme.

The story about repairing a humidifier with your own hands is coming to an end. There are differences among the models, but all devices are built according to the same principle. The best ones are equipped with humidity sensors at the inlet of the air intake path. Allows the device to turn off when the indicator reaches the set value. There is necessarily a relay that interrupts the power supply of the keys in the power supply. As seen above, the causes of breakdowns in air humidifiers are often rooted in incorrect operation. That is why we recommend reading the instructions. By the way, the models from Germany are not at all simpler in this respect than the Chinese ones. Use the device correctly, and you will not have a headache, how to fix the humidifier yourself.

And here's another thing! It is not recommended to fill the humidifier from the tap in areas with hard water. Although boiling does not occur as such, salts remain on the surface of the piezoelectric element, the bottom working chamber, forcing to periodically clean the device. Better to use bottled water, filtered or distilled.

My humidifier also recently broke down, without which I can’t exist normally anymore. The problem was in the air intake filter, it was clogged. I decided to buy a new filter, since it is quite cheap, I installed it in a humidifier. Imagine my surprise when everything worked again. Frankly, I thought to the end that the problem was a malfunction of the emitter, but after I read the article, I immediately found the cause of the breakdown.