Menu of Soviet canteens. Menu of Soviet tables What was the name of Thursday in Soviet canteens

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Soviet canteens - one of the unshakable stereotypes. A comprehensive lunch on plastic difference is always the first, second and compote ...

Despite the fact that the Soviet caresses the majority of the most important in those days causes a sense of nostalgic horror, in recent years there are more restaurants in the "Soviet style".

For those who want to remember the "bright past" there is a compote from dried fruits, and an egg under mayonnaise, and faceted glasses, and cakes with oil green robes ...


Today it is fashionable to scold McDonalds and in general any fast food. What only epithets do not give hamburgers and other food from poppy. And my opinion is such that a person who survived in the conditions of a total scooping catering, no bigmaki, "writes with knowledge of LJ-user Germanych.

Nevertheless, there are quite a few people for whom chickens and chicken noodles are the most beautiful delicacies from childhood. Apparently, for such nostalging personalities, the establishments of the A la USssr with the interior in the style of the 50s and the menu are approximately from the same time, but, alas, at modern prices.


For example, a "real" Soviet dining room with all attributes appeared in the Moscow GUM on the third floor - automata with gas production, aluminum forks and steak with egg. Contemporary children The lack of "cola" in the menu, of course, is horrified, but the older generation is fun to see this.


Now it is definitely interesting, but when they listen to the stories of people who lived at the time, involuntarily starting to rejoice, which was born a lot later.
"In the Sovde, in general, any product that could be diluted - necessarily diluted: milk and beer diluted with water, the sour cream was diluted with milk, chopped bifhchtecs diluted with bread, and the bread content in the cutlets were brought to such a percent that meat was almost never left.


On this, by the way, the joke was founded by Plato Ryabinin from the film: "Station for two", facing the waitress Violent: "Just pass there in the kitchen that ice cream for faith, so let it dilute it."
By the way, the ice cream in the cafe for some reason in fact did not dilute anything - probably, the Soviet overseet craftsmen could not come up with anywhere than you can dilute, "says all the same germanych.


The catering system included dining rooms (urban, departmental types of university), cafes, restaurants, snack bars (all sorts of pancakes, dumplings, cheburny).

In addition to the famous Soviet dunnels, which are now strongly copying fashionable restaurants, there were still dumplings, sausage, cheburic and donuts. Sit in the institution, in fact, it was impossible, visitors "were located" behind the high tables, on which jars with mustard were stood. It is worth saying that now such institutions are revived.


You can ponostalgate, for example, in a glassy near the metro station Novokuznetskaya. And the "those most donuts" from childhood are sold at the ICC, the stall with them is called. By the way, near the two windows always turn.


In Soviet times, getting into a decent restaurant was great luck. And even more luck was tasty there. Now, when you can buy almost everyone, for some reason, for some reason I really want to return to some strange Soviet times for a couple of hours.


And they go to the institution, where they are served mimos from canned, pasta in Flot and Borsch. And it doesn't matter what it costs them not a few rubles, but in a couple of thousand thousand. Who considers you ...

Weekly menu of factory factory-kitchen in the 50s serving workers and ITER airline enterprises, as well as a wide range of mass customers "from the street"

1
Cabbage meat soup
Cheesecakes with sour cream (option: Dumplings with cottage cheese)
Pancakes with a jam plum

2
Borsch Moskovsky with sausage and cracker
Boilers with potatoes boiled and cucumber salty
Dried fruits compote

3
Pickiness Leningrad with chicken losses
Pasta Falls (with fried minced meat)
Mousse apple

4
Parl soup with meat and roots
Boiled chicken with rice
Cranberry kissel

5
Chicken soup with rice
Boiled cod with potato mashed potatoes
Kisel Apple

6
Peasant vegetable soup with meat
Sausages with cabbage stew
Jelly lemon

7
Pea soup with ham (or sausage)
Pork stew with buckwheat (rice) porridge
Kisel Milk

From the mid-60s and in the 70s, some changes have occurred in the menu, which expressed mainly in the inclusion of a number of national cuisines of the peoples of the USSR in the everyday repertoire of city canteens and restaurants, as well as sanatoriums and rest houses. There were changes in the composition of products, which can easily notice attentive reader.

Autumn-winter season

Monday
Soup cabbage with pork
Flubbal, stewed in tomato sauce
Kisel Milk

Tuesday
Borsch Moskovsky with sausages
Boiled cod with potato mashed potatoes and salted tomato
Compote from canned peaches

Wednesday
Chicken Roles
Bifstex chopped with rice porridge
Cranberry kissel

Thursday
Mutton harcho soup
Cheesecakes with sour cream
Sambuk from apples

Friday
Pearl soup with meat
Boiled chicken with rice
Dried fruits compote

Saturday
Soup with dumplings
Scrambled eggs with sausage
Pancakes with a jam plum

Sunday
Soup with meatballs
Pork escalo
Jelly orange

Spring-summer season

Monday
Sing green from spinach
Fish cutlets with potato mashed potatoes
Fresh apples compote

Tuesday
Svekolnik (Creek)
Azu with salt cucumber
Inherberry kissel

Wednesday
Obroze vegetable
Lulle-kebab with tomato paste
Pancakes with cottage cheese and vanilla-dairy sauce

Thursday
Fish Salonka
Cabbages with meat
Mousse apple

Friday
Soup rice milk
Goulash pork with fried potatoes
Strawberry Mousse

Saturday
Mushroom soup with vermicelline
Meat stuffed zucchini
Black Currant Compote

Sunday
Chicken soup with rice
Beefroganov with mashed potatoes
Fresh grapes

This menu in food is richer, and in culinary terms is much less cultural than pre-war. His eclecticity rushes. Here and the pan-European (Bifstex, Escalop, Goulash), and some national dishes (Azu, Harcho, Lulle-Kebab), all of them consistently and one-sided reinforce the meat roll of the menu. It manifests itself in increasing the proportion of pork in dishes, and at the expense of the pre-war predominance of beef, as the genuine meat base of Russian cuisine.
True, a new maritime fish appeared - Cod, Kambala. At the same time, purely culinary illiteracy reveals itself by the fact that meat dishes appear porridge as a barrier accompaniment when the prefabricated vegetable side dish.
Sausage, sausages are also a new phenomenon in hot dining menu dishes. Before the war, they were served only for breakfast or dinner, and lunch was preparing from natural raw products, and not from semi-finished products.
But violations of the national uniqueness of meat dishes are particularly unpleasant. Keeping their national names, the authors of the menu rudely changed their specific national composition and taste: Harcho was made of lamb, although it should be prepared from beef, and lulabab consisted of pork, although it was supposed to consist of lamb. There was some strange "Moscow" borsch, which should have justified the inclusion of urban sausages in it.
In a word, the loss of those residues of the pre-war culinary culture was found in everything, which was still preserved in Soviet cuisine in the presenters of the older generation, made Russian cuisine of the beginning of the 20th century.
By the 80s, this process of cultural degradation of the official urbital Soviet cooking was gone so far that even when developing a cosmonaut menu, developers from the Institute of Nutrition and Table Cooks, who graduated from Soviet Culinary Technical Schools, with excellent labor, created only weekly menus, which should have repeated 52 Once a year, but could not provide a small group of cosmonauts even with a monthly diverse menu. The lack of culinary fantasy and the complete ignorance of the achievements of the Russian national and European cooking of these "developers" are simply striking. Their culinary illiteracy and limitations are almost implausible, it is difficult to believe in them, and only the menu "Space dinners" convinces that we are dealing with the degradation of culinary culture.
This is "the transcendental, divine, cosmic menu for the chosen" people, for the rare "heroes of our planet." What distinguishes it from a simple factory dining room or a military hospital dining room? Yes, almost nothing! In addition, most of the write is done with the rubbish.

1
Borscht
Sausages-baby
Coffee

2
Vegetable soup
Beef tongue
Tea without sugar

3
Pearl puree soup
Chicken pate (or quail)
Honey

4
Sing cabbage rubbed
Beef with potato
Cranberry kissel

5
Purean Puree Soup
Ham canned
Souffle from currant

6
Potato Soup with Champignons
Beef Cutlets with Beet Puree
Strawberry Water With Sugar

In preparation for cosmonauts, Soviet cooking has made the same mistake as the whole Soviet cooking as a whole: she excluded spices, limited sweets and generally deprived cosmonauts in the food of elementary joys of life, excluding even all sharp - pepper, mustard, horseradish, onion, garlic. Only the persistent requirements of a number of crews were able to gradually return these ordinary in orbit, but the products are so necessary in cooking. The reason for such an illiterate neglect of the spices was the well-known "solid-free" installations of Soviet medicine, whose representatives expelled all acute foods, not understanding anything in nutritional physiology, nor in the psychology of taste, nor the more in the basics of cooking.
The fact that doctors, doctors, people are distant from the kitchen, constantly intervened in the problems of nutrition, was a huge tragedy for the development of Russian and Soviet cooking after 1917. The reason for this intervention is unprecedented for the whole world cooking is that during the civil war, due to the distribution of various epidemic diseases, the doctors were mobilized into the army and in all points of public, massiform for supervision and control of the hygienic condition of the geypecological states, Dishes (her wash hot water), for personal hygiene fighters (washing the hands with soap) and thereby they were obliged, therefore, to respond to the state of general epidemiological work. But, hitting the kitchen, epidemiologists went beyond their direct duties, gave themselves the right to carry out food, and then began to interfere in the culinary process, without understanding it. After the end of the epidemics of the doctors in the inertia and in view of the usual raw bureaucratic confusion remained on the food, although they had to be driven from there. They had a major negative impact on the development of Soviet cooking, they carry the basic responsibility for the talent presence of food on anticulinary rules, for completely brainless standards and for exile from Soviet cuisine of spices, spices, seasoning, without which classical cooking is impossible, without which Get delicious food in general.
In general, in general in culinary institutions of the country, it became possible only because the Cook's actually remained practically uneducated, having only secondary special education (culinary technical schools), while doctors had higher education and formally occupied the situation of the culinary authorities, So even knowledgeable self-taught cookies could not cope with the obviously illiterate and voluntaristic actions of the "educated" physicians.
It was this abnormal situation in the Soviet catering and was the reason for the degradation of Soviet cuisine by the 90s, which served as a logical reason for the delivery of all the culinary positions of the Russian national cuisine in front of Western experts, began to penetrate the culinary market of Russia. Soviet public catering, headed by not culinary, but by physicians, fully degraded, capitulated to massive, simplified, American cuisine with its primitive set of extremely monotonous duty dishes with a standard, unchanged taste: hamburgers, hot dogs, pizza - which are even difficult to consider "dishes ", And can be regarded only as" fast food facilities. "
In the 90s, especially starting with their middle, there is a sharp placement of Americanized "mass cuisine" (which, by the way, it is difficult to call "People's" due to its relatively high cost, but which is nonetheless in its nature, content and quality It is plebeian (low kitchen) and an expensive Lord's cuisine, which is started to cultivate elite restaurants. Here, for a very high fee, we offer rich customers in most cases really real, good food. Therefore, objectively modern restaurants perform in general the progressive role of reinforcers of good quality food and revivers of the previous Cultural culinary traditions. However, this process is not yet straightforwardly, not quite smoothly and is not devoid of errors, and even perversions, which is observed particularly clearly in the issue of developing restaurant menu.
As for the ordinary, mass catering, it is even more simplified in its composition and the assortment of dishes and is, in fact, a cleaner with the most primitive "Soviet samples".

. V.V. Pokhlebkin. 2005.