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Wired mouse device. Computer Mouse Repair - My Computer - Articles Catalog - Iaisite (Moy-TestSite). What is "mouse"

Computer mouse - This is an electronic manipulator designed to remotely control the operation of a computer program using the activation of the cursor moving around the monitor screen following the movement of the mouse over the surface. To control the mouse housing, install at least two keys and the wheel, allowing you to scroll through the pages in the vertical direction.

By the method of connecting to a computer, the mouse is wired (connected using a flex cable PS / 2 or USB connector) and wireless.


The photo shows a wireless mouse. As you can see, she does not have a wire for connecting to a computer. In wireless mice, the exchange of information is carried out using radio frequency. In the USB port of the computer, a laptop or tablet, a transceiver is inserted, providing a two-way connection of the mouse with a device through the ether.

The following disadvantages are inherent in wireless mice: - They are more expensive, harder and require additional attention, as it is necessary to periodically replace the seed batteries or charge batteries.

Optical computer mice are very reliable and able to serve for many years. But over time break, and you have to replace the mouse or repair yourself, since the repair in the workshop will cost more the cost of a new one.

Wired mouses fail, in the overwhelming number of cases, due to the wire oven at the exit place from the housing, and the wireless due to the discharge of the battery, battery, or contact disorders between its outputs or contacts in the container due to their oxidation. Over time, any mouses fail due to the wear of the buttons, usually the left, as the most frequently used. For repair, the mouse must be disassembled.

How to disassemble a computer mouse

In order to disassemble the mouse for repair, you need to unscrew the fastening screws from the bottom side. It usually happens one, but there may be several. In this model, the mouse of halves is bonded with one screw.

If visually screws are not visible, then most likely they are closed with a label or hidden under the spikes. It is necessary to gently pressed on the label throughout the area. If, in which, or place, the label begged in the form of a circle, then the screw is most likely, and the screw is hidden. This mouse has a screw hidden under the label that had to be partially rejected.


In the model, for example, the TECH X-701 fastening is made using two screws, one of which is also hidden under the label. When you try to spare the label, it began to rush, the screw had to unscrew, having done a hole in the label. The location of the prolque label is a screwdriver in the photo below, indicated, blue circle.


If it failed to detect the screws under the screws, it means that they are exactly sealed by the spyers. For access, you need to remove the scimensions carefully for access. At the end of the repair of the mouse, they will need to be glued to the place, as it will be worse to slide without the spikes.


After unscrewing the screws, it is necessary to push the halves of the mouse housing from the unscrewed screw in different directions and remove the top part on which the buttons are located.

The circuit board of the mouse is usually not fixed with screws and installed with holes on the plastic rods protruding from the case. But computer mice are found, in which the printed circuit board is adhered to small cogs to the case. If, when you try to remove the fee, it is not amenable to find and unscrew all the screws that are fixed. An example of a computer Mouse Tech X-701, which is fixed to the housing with a screw that locks simultaneously and an additional printed circuit board of the side buttons.

To remove the fee you need to pose it from below, at the same time removing the axis of the wheel from the bearing locks of the case.


When disassembling the mouse, remember how the items relative to each other are located. Pay special attention to the spring ratchet spring (if there is such). It looks like a span of clothespins, only the size is small and can be easily lost. If you do not like the wheel when the wheel is rotated, how the ratchet works, you can slightly adjust the tip of the spring, which is included in contact with the cloth of the wheel. The pressure will decrease and the wheel will rotate softer.

When disassembling and repairing the mouse, you need to ensure that it is necessary to avoid touching the hands to the surfaces of the optical prism and other elements of optics. If there are randomly touched on the surface there were labored traces, then they need to be removed to be removed with a special composition with a napkin for wiping optical parts. In no case is not allowed to use for cleaning, of any solvents. If there is no special napkin at hand, simply erase the traces of the mud soft cloth.

Repair of a wireless mouse

The main reason for the complete inoperability of wireless mice is the elbow batteries (batteries) or bad contact of their conclusions with the electrical circuit of the mouse. Since the lasers have many models of mouse models in the light range, it is enough to turn on the mouse to determine the batteries and look at it from below. If the red glow is emitted, it means that the batteries are in order. Otherwise, the repair should be started with checking batteries and the quality of their contact with the electrical circuit of the mouse.


In order to get to the batteries, you need, for example, as in this mouse, click on the "Open" button, after which the battery cover is released, and it will open.


If the Laser operates in the invisible zone in the mouse, then you can only check the power of the power source or measuring the voltage on the outputs of the batteries.

In the long working mouse, contacts can be oxidized both on the outputs of batteries and contacts in the mouse. In this case, they need to be inspected and in the case of the detection of oxides, remove them with a rag moistened in alcohol or just thoroughly wipe to shine. Delete sandpaper from the contacts of the mouse is undesirable, since the thin protective electroplating coating will be removed from them.

As in a wired mouse
Repair hazardous wire

If when working the mouse, the cursor starts spontaneously moves, jump into any place of the monitor screen or hang, then with greater reliability it can be argued on the violation of the integrity of the wire at the place of exit from the hull. Check it easily, you need to press the wire to the case and if temporarily recovery is restored, it means that it is accurate in the wire.


If during the inspection of the wires at the place of exit from the body of the computer mouse, its physical damage was found, then the cause of the inoperability is obvious. Here is an example of such damage. The photo shows that the double outer sheath of the wire is damaged, and some conductors of the type of tinsel are fluttered.


In the presence of soldering skills, a soldering iron, a computer mouse with a stitching wire is not difficult to repair, doubleing its service life. Repair is to remove the damaged area of \u200b\u200bthe wire and sealing, the newly prepared ends of the surviving part of the conductors in the printed circuit board.

How to repair the riser wire mouse soldering

The wire connecting the computer mouse with the connector is two species - made of ordinary fine stranded copper wire and wires of type tinsel. Mishur type wire is more elastic, therefore it has high resistance when bends and serves longer.

Entering the mouse housing, the wire passes along and connects to the printed circuit board. There are two types of compounds, a detachable connection or pressing a block that is soldered into the fee. In the photo, the pad dropped from the printed circuit board with the conductor pressed into it.

In independence from the method of connecting wires with a circuit board of the mouse to know how to repaid when repairing, you need to take a picture or draw, what color is the wire with which contact is connected. Then drop out of the board of the connector (it is better not to disconnect, it is easier to fall out) or a block. There is no international standard of column scheme for mouses, and each wiring color manufacturer chooses at its discretion. I had to repair a lot of computer mice and everywhere wires from the same conclusions of the connectors walked different colors. Obviously, this is due to the fact that the mouse is considered consumable, and repairing it after the end of the warranty period producers do not provide.

After winning the old wires from the circuit board of the mouse, it is necessary to free the holes from the solder to seal new wires. This work is easy to perform with a toothpick or sharp match. It is enough to warm up the solder at the location of the opening from the side of the circular conductors of the board and insert the tip of the toothpicks into it, remove the soldering iron, and when the solder will freeze the toothpick. The hole will be free to install the conductor in it.


To prepare the wires to install, it is necessary to cut off the exit of the mouse housing that came into disrepair of the wire 15-20 mm long. Remove insulation from the wires and strip the ends of the conductors of the shift. You need to browse the wires to put them on a wooden stand, while rotating in the same direction so that the irradiated wiring tips turned out to be round. Otherwise, they will be impossible to insert into the holes of the printed circuit board.

Insert the wires in the circuit board, in accordance with the sketched color scheme and pour the soldering iron.

Wires of the type of tinsel, it will not be possible to fill with the help of an ordinary ribbon flux, since the tape conduits are tinted with a layer of insulating varnish. It is impossible to use acid flux, as it will impregnate the inner thread of the Wire of Mishur and will destroy the conductors over time. The best flux in this case is aspirin tablet.


It remains to insert the lifted ends of the wires into the holes of the printed circuit board and to panice.


Sometimes there are mice in which the circuit board is double-sided with holes for wires of a very small diameter, and it is very difficult to free them from the solder. In this case, you can simply solder conductors to contact sites. Since the physical load on the wires is not applied when the mouse is running, the connection serves quite reliably.

Now you can set the printed circuit board in the base of the case and secure it with a screw, lay the wire and close the top cover. When installing the cover with the buttons, you need to trace so that the wire does not hit the buttons pushers, between the pairing the housing and did not touch other moving parts. Before assembling the mouse, it is necessary to remove dust and hair, which for a long service life is stuffed through the gap between the wheel and the body is quite a lot. The repair is completed and the computer mouse is ready to work again.

How to repair the stuck mouse wire twist

Reliable than soldering the wire will not repair, but not everyone can solder, but if you can, then you don't always have a soldering iron. You can successfully restore the operation of the mouse and without a soldering iron, the twist of the wires. The mouse disassembles and the plot of rolling wire is cut.


Conditions from the cut shell of the wire are carefully retrieved. Wire shell is not cut, it will still serve.

Conducts the length of the conductors in such a way that when the twist, the twist place was shifted relative to each other by 8 mm and the ends of the conductors are determined from the insulation for a length of 5-8 mm.


The ends of the conductors of the same color are tightly twisted with each other.

The resulting twists bend along the conductors, and the conductors are refilled into one of the previously crashed wire shells. When refueling, you need to pay attention to that the twists will touch each other.



A pair of isolation turns will exclude a random touch of twists to parts on the mouse board and give compound sufficient mechanical strength.

It remains to insert the wire connector into the opposite part on the mouse circuit board and lay the wire in the case.


Close the top cover, screw the screws and you can start working on your computer. The wire renovated in this way will serve another period. Sometimes the system unit is installed away from the workplace, and the wire length of the mouse lacks to work without its tension. By the above, the proposed technologies can successfully increase the wire to the desired length, taking the wire from the old mouse. Since there is no single color standard for wires, you need to pre-define a call, which color of the wire is connected to what number in the connector.

To increase the service life of the mouse, it is necessary to ensure that the wire in the place of exit from the housing of the mouse during the manipulation of it is not very flex.

If the mouse wheel has become bad to rotate

Sometimes when the wheel of the mouse is rotated, the scrolling of pages occurs with jerks or one of the sides does not move. One of the reasons is the hit of dust and hair between the photo sensor and the photodetector of the Wheel Optocreter. The dirt enters the mouse housing through the gap between its body and the wheel and sticks to the axes of the wheel, as they are covered with lubricant to improve sliding.


After removing dust and hair, the performance of the mouse wheel is recovered.

Repair the mouse button

If when you click on the left or right button, the reaction does not always occur or does not happen at all, then the reasons may be two. Wear a button in the touch point with a microswitch pusher or its failure. In order to understand the reason, it is enough to disassemble the mouse and inspect the place of the button in contact with the pusher. If there is a millimeter recess, then the reason is possible.

When you press a finger to the pusher, a clear and ringing click should be heard. If the sound is deaf, then it is possible in the switch. To check, you need to connect a mouse with a removed upper half to a working computer and undermine your finger on the pushers of microswitters. If it works normally, it will be enough to eliminate the production on the button in any available way, for example, the melting of plastic, the drop of epoxy resin. If the case is in the microswitch, then you will have to replace it.

In the overwhelming majority of mice, the microswackers of standard sizes are used. The microswitch is arranged and works as follows. In the plastic case, three plates from brass complex configuration are pressed, which end in pin to the seal in the printed circuit board. The left (in the photo) plate is the middle point of the switch. It put an extra thin brass plate with p onto the bottom of it.

The left side of the thin brass plate engages the ledge on the left side of the left contact plate, and the right, curved arc, engages for the right ledge of the left contact plate. A thin flat plate is set in such a way that its right end pulls up always up, and it contacters the right thick plate having a rigid shape.

When you press the button, the button pusher transmits an effort to a thin plate, it moves down, departs from the top contact and comes into contact with the bottom, the output of which is in the middle of the button. After the pressure stops, the thin plate returns to the top source position and connects again the extreme contacts of the microspector. Thus, with a not pressed button, the extreme contacts are interconnected from the bottom from the button, and when pressed, the left and medium are connected.


Over time, the metal accumulates fatigue, the arcuate spring is deformed and partially loses its spring properties. Here is the button and stop working. You can try to repair the microswitch, for what to disassemble it, remove the arcuate spring and straighten it a bit. But having a stock of old mice to this repair I did not have to resort. Although the buttons in the keyboards at the dawn appearance of computers repaired many times, each button worked on the same principle as microswitters in mice.

Therefore, if the old ballpiece has been lying around, it is more expedient to fall out of it a microswitch to replace the failed. Find out the best one that is installed under the wheel. It is rarely used and, as a rule, is correct.

If there is no wheels, then take the microswitch of the right button. Before falling out the microswitch, pay attention to how it is installed. In microswitches, the conclusions are located symmetrically and when installing it is easy to make a mistake. If there is no old mouse, then it is permissible in the repaired mouse to change the microswitches, from under the left button to the mounted under the wheel. And if a completely hopeless position, you will have to do the repair of the microswitch.

Computer mice produced at the moment have good reliability. They can work without fixing for several years. However, over time they refuse to work. You have to acquire a new mouse or repair the old yourself. Since in the workshop for it takes not small money.

Often, the breakdown of the mouse is due to the wire oven at the place of exit from the housing or bad contact, which occurs in the mouse buttons. Often, this is the left key, since it is more likely to use it. To repair the mouse, you will have to disassemble it.

How to disassemble a computer mouse

First of all, you need to unscrew the fastening screws, they are on the underside. There may be several of them, but almost always this is one screw. This model of the mouse bonds the housing with one screw.

If it fails to detect the screw, it means that it is packed with a label. Press the label if it will drive, the screw is located under it. To disassemble this mouse, I had to partially rejuvenate the sticker.

The Tech X-701 model is fastened with two screws. One of them is under a label. When an attempt was attempted to dug the label, she began to rush. I had to grope the screw and unscrew it without removing the stickers. In the photo, the place is shown in a blue circle.

If there are no screws under the sticker, then they are hidden behind the spikes. They should be left, going with a knife. After the mouse is renovated, the spikes should be returned to the place. If this is not done, the mouse will slide badly on the rug.

After all actions, the lid of the mouse is removed on which the buttons are located.

Most often, the printed circuit board is not fixed in the mouse housing. It just puts on plastic rods. If when you try to remove the board, it is not amenable to, it means that you should look for screws. This model of the mouse with a screw fixes two elements at once: housing and fee.

The board is removed by up following it from below, while the axis of the wheel from the clamps should be removed.

Carefully inspect the mouse before disassembling, remember the location of the details. Pay attention to the spring ratchet spring if it is available. It has similarities from the spring cloves, only size is less. If you do not like the rotation of the wheel, adjust the ends of this spring. Then the wheel will be softer due to a pressure reduction.

Make sure that when disassembling, your fingers have not touched the optical prism and elements of optics. If this happened, do not apply any detergents. There are special napkins to remove bold spots. If they are not available, wipe the elements of the optics with a dry cloth.

How to repair the riser wire mouse

If during the computer work you began to observe the unauthorized movement of the cursor or hang, the cause of this can be a breakdown of the wire. It is easy to check. Press the wire to the mouse housing and move. If the cursor moves along the specified axis, the entire case is in the conductor.

If its damage is noted from the mouse in the exit place, the reason for the mouse breakage is in it. Here is one example of breakdown. The photo clearly shows that the outer sheath of the wire is damaged. Some conductors just stuck. This mouse is repaired.

If you have a skill with a soldering iron, repair the mouse will not be difficult. It is enough to remove the damaged area of \u200b\u200bthe wire, prepare new ends soldering and suck them. It remains only to attach the wire to the printed circuit board.

How to repair the riser wire mouse soldering

There are two types of wire connecting the mouse with a connector: tinsel and the usual stranded. Mishur is a more elastic and soft wire. It is resistant to bends arising when using a mouse. Accordingly, it serves longer.

The wire is laid along the mouse housing and connected to the printed circuit board. There are two options for fastening this wire. With the help of the detachable connection and by pressing the board in the block. The photo shows the shoe that was falling out of the printed circuit board. Conductors are pressed into it.

So as not to forget the location of the wires in the board, it is better to take a photo. Then the connector or the shoe is dropped from the board. At the same time, the wires are better not disconnected. The color scheme of the wires may vary. Since there is no single standard, manufacturers pick the wires at their discretion.

I repaired different mice and in all wires had a different color. Most likely, this is due to the fact that the repair of the mouse field of its warranty period is not provided. After the old wires were falling out of the board, it is necessary to remove the remains of the solder. To do this, heat it with a soldering iron and, using a thin match or toothpick, squeeze the solder out of the hole. Places for new conductors are prepared.

Before starting a soldering, you need to prepare wires. Cut a bad piece of wire for a length of 15-20 mm. Remove isolation, LudiM the ends of the shift. So that the irradiated edges had a round shape, the wires should be put on a wooden stand and brown, rotating. If this is not done, the wires will not go into the holes of the printed circuit board. Then we insert them into the fee and we are searched according to the color labeling.

Conductors of Mishur are not amenable to tinnitus with a rose flux. All because they are lacquered. In this case, it is impossible to apply acid, after some time it will destroy the conductor. It is best to use aspirin tablet.

There are cases when the printed circuit board has a small diameter of the holes under the wires. In this case, the conductors can be soldered to contact sites. There will be no physical activity on the wire, so this type of connection will be sufficiently rigid.

Everything can be returned to the printed circuit board. We put the wire and secure feet with screws. Watch that the wire does not touch the moving parts, it was not laid under the push buttons, was not attached to the case. Before close the housing with a lid, take care of the extra dirt and hairlessness to be removed. You can use the mouse.

How to repair the stuck mouse wire twist

Reliable soldering for repairing wire mouse do not find. However, not everyone has a soldering iron and not everyone can solder. If you are not the owner of the soldering iron, you can repair the wires using a twist. To do this, disassemble the mouse and cut off the wire with a defect.

With the help of an acute knife blade, cut the external isolation at both ends of the wire. Approximately 5-6 cm.

The length of the conductor must be chosen in such a way that the wires of the joints of the joints were shifted by 5-8 mm relative to each other. The ends of the insulation must be cleaned.

Conductors of the same color twisted with each other.

Twist must be bought along the wires. Then fill them into the previously cut isolation. Please note that the seats of the twists do not come into contact with each other.

On the resulting connection it is necessary to impose a second segment of isolation.

This will increase the mechanical protection and protection against contact with the details on the plates of the mouse.

It remains to insert the wire connector into the connector on the printed circuit board. Then gently pave the wire on the housing of the mouse.

The mouse is covered with the upper lid, screws screw. You can use the mouse in the destination. Wires connected in this way will serve another period. It happens that the mouse connector is located away.

And the wire is lacking for the mouse. Then, on the same scheme, we increase the wireless segment. It can be taken from the old mouse. Wires can have different color marking, since there is no single standard. Therefore, before you twist the wires, ring them. To increase the deadline for the mouse, make sure that the wires in the place of exit from the housing are not laughed.

If the mouse wheel has become bad to work

Sometimes, when you rotate the wheel on the mouse, notice that the page does not scatter at all or it happens jerks. The reason for this can be the hitting of dust and hair between the optocoupler and the photo sensor of the wheel. So how does the mud fall into the mouse? Through the gaps between the case and the wheel. Since inside there is a lubricant that improves gliding, foreign objects stick to it.

Removing hair and dust, the wheel works as a new one.

How to replace the microswitter

If you find that during clicking on the mouse keys nothing happens, you should start repair. The reason for this may be the way out of the system of the microswitch or wear button formed in the touch point with the pusher.

To find out the reason, you need to disassemble the mouse and inspect it. If there is a slight recess, about 1 mm, the reason may be in this. Check the push pushers by pressing them. There should be a ringing, clear click. If this is not the case, most likely the case is in the switch itself.

This is checked as follows: the mouse in the disassembled form connects to the computer, and by pressing the pushers, is checked. If everything works, you need to replace the missing piece of plastic on the button, or pour the epoxy resin drop. If the breakage lies in the microswitch, it will have to be replaced.

It is easier to replace the switch entirely than to mess with the remapory of the wires. Most of the mouse use a standard microswitch. It works on the following principle. In the housing, made of plastic, pressed 3 brave plates having a complex shape. Their ends have pins serving for a sealing fee.

Plate, located on the photo on the left - the average point of the switch. A plate with a hole in the form "P" is attached to it. This plate with the left side is attached to the protrusion of the left plate on the left side. The right side is curved by an arc, she engages on the protrusion located on the right on the left contact plate.

Flat thin plate is designed in such a way that the right end of it is pushed up. Due to which contact is created with a thick right plate, curved in the form of the letter "g". During keystrokes, the pusher transmits an effort to a thin plate. Consequently, it goes down, moving away from the top contact, and relates to the lower. The output of this contact is located in the middle of the button.

After you release the button, the thin plate returns to its original position, due to which the disconnection of the extreme contacts of the switch occurs. It turns out that when the button is pressed, contacts are connected to each other. What does this happen with medium and left contacts. When the button is released, the extreme contacts are connected.

Since metal has the property of accumulating fatigue, the spring is deformed and loses its property. That is why the button refuses to work. Maybe the microspeaker will be able to repair.

Disassemble, remove the spring and straighten it. But I did not have to repair the switch in this way. If you have an old ball mouse, disassemble it and drop the microswitch.

Fuck the best one that is located under the wheel. It is used less frequent and often, is correct. If the wheel is missing, take the right-button switcher. Just pay attention to how it is installed. Conclusions on the switch are located symmetrically each other, easy to make a mistake.

If the old mouse is missing, change the switches in places. In place of the left button, set the switch from the wheel and vice versa. If the position is extremely hopeless, there is nothing left, how to repair a microswitch.

The manipulator mouse in the life of a modern person occupies a significant role and the way out of order at an inappropriate moment can deliver hassle if there is no store, or a spare tailed. In this article, we will look at the main breakdowns of mice and ways to eliminate them. All currently available mice can be divided into wired and wireless. We will not divide on optical and balls, we note only that in a row of optical is distinguished in the category of more accurate laser mouses. Also, optical manipulators are visible spectrum (radiating red light) and infrared spectrum, the performance of the latter emitter can be determined for example using a mobile phone camera.

To repair the computer mouse, we will need:

  • screwdriver
  • lamps (Sideburses)
  • multimeter
  • soldering iron and solder
  • shrink tube or other consumables depending on the type of detected breakage

Characteristic breakdowns of mice and their elimination

The mouse is one of the devices that the reliability of which is derived to a high level (discus on devices for the production of well-known brands, for example, I like the product quality A4-tech and Logitech, and absolutely not like the quality of the cords and the gembird buttons). Nevertheless, weak points of this miracle of technology are found. The following are the following:

  • dome (open) wire
  • locking buttons
  • wheel breakdown scroll.

Wire opening and its repair

In 90% of cases, the wired mouse breakage is associated with the label of the wire at the base of the manipulator. This is due to the fact that it is in this place that the wire bending is constantly when moving the mouse over the working surface. Signs of this breakdown is intermittent work, or performance only with a certain "chalk" of the wire. For compact "laptop" manipulators having a spring-loaded coil in the middle of the wire, the wire breaks near the USB connector are characteristic. Wire break repair is simple: After making sure that you localized the breakdown, we bite the cruises with a pair of centimeters above and below from the damaged place. Next, we solder both tail, observing the color gamut, wires. We do not forget to isolate them with the help of a shrink tube or a tape (in the extreme case wrapped each wire in several strata of the tape).

Finally, you will have to fix the wire at the base of the mouse. For this, you can carefully cut the original rubber "cable entry", remove the old one, insert a new cable and fill a little glue, it will not hurt to glue the cable to the board or the case. For further maintainability, I use thermoclauses. What it looks like after repair, look at the photo.

Problems in the operation of the buttons and their elimination

Incorrect development of clicks on the mouse buttons can have several different reasons, it is possible to find out the reason can be practically "for rumor and touch." The most common causes of problems in the buttons are:


Breakdown wheel scroll

In case of problems, the scroll wheel can be distinguished 2 of the main causes of their occurrence:

  • Problems caused by the work of the Varkoder. Externally appears in an uneven scrolling that is accompanied by jerks page upwards. This problem is solved with a neat opening of the valcoder and the removal of dust from the contacts. Another option is to attenuate the fastening of the valcoder basket to its base. How to pull the fastening you can see in this video
  • Problems caused by mechanical damage to the wheel axis. If you have overdoing and broke the axis, do not despair there are several options for eliminating this breakdown: you can find a suitable diameter of the cutting of its hat by creating a 6-graded semblance (trying to the valcoder that there would be no crosslots) and warming it on fire instead of the lack of part of the axis. The second option to find the key 6-year-old exactly suitable in the hole of the valcoder sprinkles it along the length of the axis, gently drill the hole in the scrolling wheel and paste your new axis.

Finally, a few words about the repair of wireless mice.

Many of them were still not repaired, but a couple of directions for searching the breakdown can be voiced:

  • Food. If the wireless mouse means it has its own autonomous power supply, a battery or a resonant induction power supply (refers to wireless mice working only on the surface of a USB rug that comes with them). In any case, we look at what is indicated on the bottom sticker of the mouse and compare with the measured results. Pay attention to the fact that the voltage on the battery without a load can be normal and when the load is connected it can dry. This may indicate that the battery is discharged and its replacement is required, or the device consumes a high current (short circuit in the diagram or failure of some elements). In the case of the use of salt and low-quality battles, an option to depressurize the battery is possible and the salt solution hit. In this case, it is necessary to wash the board with a brush and ethyl alcohol. It will also not hindle the current consumed and compare the resulting value with the data on the sticker.
  • The work of the emitter. The most clearly is the work of the emitter, but you can not always see it with a naked look. If you have an infrared optical system to see its performance, you can with a digital camera, webcams or cameras on the phone.
  • The presence of radio domain. In the modern office on each square meter, there are Wi-Fi access points, radio mouse, keyboard, wireless window breaking sensors, wireless fire sensors and even motion sensors from the store on the contrary can create obstacles to the normal operation of the radio sound. If you have a radio network of the same manufacturer's radio, you can try to install software from the manufacturer's manipulator and forcibly to make them work on different channels (by analogy with Wi-Fi access points, if such an opportunity is available in your manipulator software)

Good day dear readers!

The mouse and keyboard are one of the most used peripheral devices. That is why these devices, especially in mice, quickly appear all sorts of problems in work. This may be a bad opening of the buttons, double pressing the buttons with a single click, problems with the scroll wheel (moving), problems with the definition of the device system. Most of the problems are caused by mechanical wear and contamination intake inside the mouse housing.
If you have when you press the mouse buttons, they are badly triggered or the double click is triggered, then the likely cause lies in mechanical wear. All elements of the manipulator are made of plastics and with frequent use they quickly erase, developing. When you press the button, the mouse button becomes not enough to securely worked the button.

1. Mouse button does not work

but) Detect wear fairly easy. You should disassemble the mouse, it is enough to unscrew one or two screws from the bottom side. The mouse buttons may have a different design, but most of them are the plastic part of the top cover (or a separate element), which, by means of a plastic lever, affects the button sprinkled on the printed circuit board. On this plastic lever and develops. To restore the mouse efficiency, it is necessary to clean the lever surface with the appliance or sandpaper, ensuring a flat surface. Also pay attention to the reliability of the fastening of the printed circuit board and the quality of the site of the solder of the button.

b)We will not leave the quality of the button itself or in more detail in more detail the quality of the button itself or in other words of Micrik, if the problem lies in the micrique itself, then we can simply turn on and the donor can be any old mouse or purchase it in a special store, if so There is nearby. To repaid micrik, heating the legs of the microspector and pushing the knife (or pulling his fingers from the reverse side) pull the switch, to do it at the same time and quickly, ( when soldering, it is advisable not to overheat the button). After dropping on the board, it is necessary to clean the holes from the old solder so that you can easily insert and solder a worker micrik.

in) Let's look at the option in which we would cost without a soldering iron. To do this, we need to disassemble a button, do it is not difficult. We use a thin screwdriver or needle a cover first from one side, then from the other, remove the lid. After removing the lid, the button will fall out, which is desirable not to lose. The problem is that over time, the tongue on the record begins to fuse, we need to beat it slightly. We collect a button and check the mouse to work.


2. Mouse wheel does not work (moving jerks)

To solve this problem, we, of course, need to disassemble the mouse, this time we will work with a wireless manipulator. And so we unscrew the screws on the bottom of the mouse and remove the upper part of it, then we unscrew all the screws that secure the board to the bottom of the mouse housing. Now that the board is unscrewed, we raise it and carefully pull out the wheel from the scroll sensor. So we got to a faulty item.

The causes of the malfunction may be such, the mechanism of the mouse scroll, with such a malfunction, we could simply press four mustache with passatages and seemed to be fixed, but with such a repair at best, your mouse would have lived another month. Also, the cause of the malfunction could be contaminated contacts of the spinning mechanism. Therefore, the following that we have to do is disassemble the scrolling sensor. Filing four mustes that keep the insides of the sensory element

and it will beat the part that the feet in the feet in the feet

after that, pull out the drum, within which contacts are located.

Everything, the disassembly is completed, now it remains only to eliminate and collect back. We take a cotton wand wetting it in some alcohol liquid and wipe the contact surface. Now in reverse order collect all the mechanism back. After the assembly, it is necessary to strengthen the mouse scroll mechanism, for this you need to install the P-shaped bracket from the metal plate.

We collect the mouse and see the result of our works.

3. Probers with the definition of the device system

Program errors are possible in the manipulator. Check the operation of the mouse follows first if possible on another computer or laptop if the errors also appear, then, most likely the reason in the hardware of the manipulator. Program errors are most likely with game manipulators that require installation of additional drivers or software, you can also update the drivers or hardware configuration in the device manager. With standard devices, software problems are very rare. But, nevertheless, if problems arose, try finding and installing the appropriate driver. Also check the correct operation of the USB or PS / 2 port controller. You may have to update the motherboard driver to eliminate the problem.

4 Additionally, there are such malfunctions

1. Also, the cause of bad operation of the buttons and the scroll wheel is the usual dust, or rather the one that has accumulated inside the mouse housing. After a few months of operation in the mouse accumulates quite a lot of dust, a pile, hair and other contaminants. All this reflects on the work of the scroll wheel. The wheel becomes tight, and the scrolling can occur unevenly. You should disassemble the manipulator and carefully remove all dust and other particles of dirt. The plastic housing of the mouse can be wiped with wet wipes or rinse in warm water. Avoid moisture from entering the elements of the printed circuit board, and if it happened, do not use the mouse until the moisture is finally driving (better during the day).

2. Another cause of problems with the mouse can be a wire break. Due to the energetic use of the manipulator, a cliff of a thin wiring is often occurred at the site of the gasket to the mouse board or on the connector. In this case, you should also disassemble the mouse and view the location of the wires of the wires, as well as check the connector. In case of discovery of the wire cliff or the connector feet, the malfunction should be eliminated. If you do not have sufficient skills, contact a specialist.

3. The following problem with the mouse can be wounded in the connector of the device to the computer to the computer. Modern manipulators are connected via USB connector, but still there are still devices for connecting through the PS / 2 port. This port often becomes the cause of various failures in the work. It's all right in unreliable contacts and the ability of thin connectors' pins easily and lazy. In the case of crushing contacts, they should be carefully aligned. It should be careful and not damage the neighboring contacts. With a USB connector, problems with a bad contact is less common and manifests itself in the case of connecting the device to a strongly contaminated port.

Other errors in the operation of the mouse are probably associated with the release of radio elements of the device, and to repair in this case the mouse independently without special equipment is problematic. It remains only to purchase a new mouse.

Good luck and to new repair.

Reading time: 3 min.

Computer mouse - key mechanism for comfortable working with a computer. With it, you can manage the PC menu features. As the mouse is used actively, it breaks also often and unexpectedly. Its device is not characterized by a complex design. The mouse can be disassembled and reproduced with their own hands, having a minimum set of tools and knowledge in service. To find out how without consequences, disassemble the mouse without bolts, you should study the features of its fixtures.

Features of fasteners

The mouse consists of two parts of the housing, wheel and internal parts. The top case is divided into two main buttons. Between themselves the upper and lower parts are bolted. Usually, their manufacturers are hiding under the spikes or stickers. Most of the midges have four fastening screws under the legs on the bottom of the housing. These legs serve for easy slide on the rug. They are dug and stick back.


Often there are devices with one bolt on one side of the case. The second side is fixed with the help of latches. If the screws are not visible at all, it means that there are latches around the perimeter. To disassemble the mouse, you need to push slightly.

Inside there is a printed circuit board, most often not fixed by cogs. It is saturated with holes on plastic rods protruding from the housing. In some models, the board is applied by one or more bolts.

Development of device

Computer mouse may fail for various reasons. The most common:

  • clogging;
  • oxidation of metal contacts;
  • wheel axis breakage;
  • damage to the wire.


Almost all malfunctions can be eliminated at home. To do this, you need to perform some steps:

  • Prepare the necessary tools.
  • Disconnect the mouse from the computer.
  • Perform the laying of the housing by pressing on the latch or unscrewing screws.
  • Remove the halves of the housing using a screwdriver with a rubber or plastic bat, which will not leave scratches on the device plastic.
  • Disconnect parts of the mouse must be carefully, without sharp movements, so as not to break the inner wires.
  • Inside there is a chip. It must be disconnected and remove it from the groove, and also remove other buttons if it comes to the gaming mouse.
  • After repair, the assembly needs to be carried out in the reverse order.

Repair can be concluded in such manipulations:

  • The interrupted wire should be soldered.
  • The broken axis of the wheel can be made from the usual stationery clips.
  • The clogged areas should be cleaned with a special napkin or pure soft cloth.

After all necessary events, you can start assembling. First, they install the wheel, screw the board and return additional buttons. Then you need to neatly connect the halves of the case and screw the bolts, or press the parts to each other in the location of the latch to the characteristic click. The mouse is assembled - you can check its work.

Preparation of instruments


To disassemble and repair the mouse, you will need a minimum set of tools:

  • screwdriver Set;
  • scissors;
  • soldering iron.

Medical gloves should be used to repair the fingertips in the board or internal contacts during the repair. A special napkin needs to eliminate blockages. In extreme cases, a piece of soft clean fabric is suitable. For cleaning it is forbidden to use water with detergents or solvents. You need to take ordinary alcohol. They can be mixed with a cotton disk and wipe the board, wheel, housing from the inside. The optical sensor is cleaned with a toothpick with a cotton, also moistened in alcohol.

Repair of wireless mouse

Wireless devices often fail due to the sealing batteries. If the mouse stops responding to movement or does not respond poorly on manipulation, then most likely to replace the batteries. Most wireless models have a light indicator indicator, so the serviceability of the batteries is checked on a luminous red light indicator.


Discharged batteries are removed simply. On the "sole" of the mouse, you need to open the compartment lid and remove the batteries. It also does not prevent the contacts in the device and on the outputs of the batteries. Over time, they are oxidized. The resulting raids are removed with a rag, impregnated with alcohol. We are not recommended to use sandpaper - you can remove the protective galvanic film.

Computer mouse is a small, but very important device for users of PC. It is experiencing a greater mechanical load during active operation. Over time, this leads to breakdowns, most of which can be eliminated at home. Several screwdrivers, soft flaps, ammonia alcohol and gloves, as well as some patience and a serious approach to repair will save finances and time.



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